Stuart Ralston burst onto Edinburgh’s hospitality scene in 2014 with his groundbreaking 'neo-bistro' Aizle. Fresh from a stint in New York, Stuart did the cooking while Krystal Goff curated the drinks and the surprise tasting menu put produce centre stage.
Several years later Aizle is resident in the Kimpton Charlotte Square Hotel, Noto has opened in Thistle Street and Stuart's latest venture is Tipo in Hanover Street. Named after the ‘00’ flour, Tipo specialises in small plates inspired by the flavours of boot-shaped Italy.
Vivian is my plus one when we visit for a preview of the menu.
The room is Scandi, stripped back, walls are white and fuss minimal. It reminds me of the first home of Aizle in St Leonards.
Vivian and I are seated by a window overlooking the street and presented with a list of the dishes we are going to try.
First up is the fluffiest sourdough focaccia ever; it’s like eating savoury cake. Then we have Lamb Fritte, gamey, coated, fried bites each topped with a silver anchovy; a classic pairing of intensely flavoured ingredients presented in a new way. Richness comes from both the meat and some mayo while a deep emerald pool of chive oil lends colour and perfume.
Next comes a dish I have never tasted before. A surprisingly light Zeppole with Pecorino. Zeppole are fried churros-shaped pastries with soft potato filling. Slender discs of Octopus Carpaccio are delicate albeit with distinguishable flavour. It’s a revelation to eat the mollusk this way as opposed to the
rustic chunky usual serve. Here however, the hot Romesco, while great in itself, overpowers the other elements on the plate.
Duck Liver Parfait is thickly whipped and served with scorched walnut nuggets. It is followed by two pasta dishes. First ribbons of Pappardelle with crab, chilli and parsley all finely chopped and sensitively balanced. I might point out here that we are drinking Ilatium Morini Le Calle, Soave, 2021; liquid Spring in a glass, the fresh fruity flavours are versatile, cutting through the parfait but complementing the pasta. Perhaps not perfect for our next dish though, Paccheri in Vodka Sauce. Our Italian waitress informs us that Paccheri means ‘slap’ in Italian and the dish is indeed a large slap of hearty pasta tubes slathered in tomato sugo. Nice to have a pasta that is allowed to shine and not drowned in Parmesan (much as I like cheese).
Although the dishes are billed as ‘small plates’ and we are sharing, the jeans are straining. However, a warm chocolate cake with a layer of sabayon still slips down as does vanilla soft serve with cherry. (S. Wilson)
Tipo - 110 hanover Street, Edinburgh EH2 1DR - 0131 226 4545
Open - seven days 1202.30pm and 5.30pm-9pm.
