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Ignite
Ignite
272 Morrison Street,
Haymarket,
Edinburgh,
EH3 8DT
[View Map]
0131 228 5666
7 days noon-2.30pm and 5.30pm-11.30pm

Review written November 2007
Sure to Set Your Taste Buds Alight!

GOING FOR AN INDIAN MEAL WITH SOMEONE WHO HAS TRAVELLED THROUGH-OUT INDIA CAN BE A RISKY PROPOSITION, BUT WHO BETTER TO ADVISE ME ON THE AUTHENTICITY OR OTHERWISE OF WHAT I AM EATING. I AM FAIRLY EASY TO PLEASE; THE SAME CANNOT BE SAID OF MY DINING PARTNER, SO I LOOK FORWARD TO OUR MEAL AT THE MUCH-ACCLAIMED IGNITE WITH EAGERNESS AND TREPIDATION IN EQUAL MEASURE.

The warm welcome we receive gets us off to a good start, as does the atmosphere, which is on the casual side of elegant but with just the right balance to make us feel relaxed but still special. This doesn't stop us from doing what is de rigueur for an Indian meal: ordering dishes to share. We opt for vegetarian starters: piazi, deep-fried dumplings of spicy lentils and onions (£2.75) and baby aubergine pakura, deep-fried young aubergines in gram flour (£2.95). Piazi is a dish from Bengal so it is new to both of us, and gets a mutual thumbs-up. The aubergines are meltingly tender, and while my partner would have preferred a bit more heat in the batter, to my European palate it is just right, allowing the sweetness of the aubergines to shine through.

For mains we both choose lamb, but despite their common ingredients they are two very different dishes. For me, Madrasi sag gust (£10.95), lamb cooked with spinach, garlic, ginger and coriander. My partner's simikot lamb (£10.95) is barbecued slices of lamb cooked with mincemeat, onion, ginger, garlic and coriander. The barbecue taste adds a depth to the dish without clashing with the accompanying spices. My sag gust is rich and oh, so tender, and doesn't the spinach counts towards my five a day? We also enjoy the recommended side dishes of aloo goobe (potato and cauliflower) and bhindi bhajee, sliced okra (both £3.95) and wash everything down with a bottle of Yalumba viognier (£23.50).I can't manage another bite, but my partner finishes off with pistachio kulfi (£2.50), an Indian ice cream, which provides a refreshing finale.

I enjoyed everything, but what's the all-important verdict of my hard-to-please partner? Definitely worth a return visit!

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