When it comes to produce La Garrigue walks the walk.
 
The restaurant is named after the scrubland of the Languedoc-Roussillon in the South of France because, at heart, food here is earthy and rustic. But don’t be fooled there is flair too in the execution of the dishes. And while some ingredients are French, many hail from Scotland. A basket of chanterelles foraged from a woodland in Fife grace the kitchen on the night we visit.

Patron Jean Michel started the restaurant in 2001 and was owner and chef for many years. The ‘baguette baton’ however, has been passed to a highly competent team, not least Head Chef Peter Duck. Peter has a pedigree which includes Westminster College, Claridges and Albert Roux at the Grand Hotel in Amsterdam.

Mr Bite and I learn this after eating dinner and it hints at why our meal was so outstanding.  Three of my favourite words have to be Peach Tarte Tatin but it’s a close call with Soupe de Poissons so I am delighted to see both on the menu. Oops à la carte there we go again – à la carte. The ghosts of fish bones and crustacean shells along with alcohol are readily detected in the intense bisque of the classic Provencal soup with saffron, garlic and chilli spiked rouille, croutons and grated gruyère.  A glass of Rose on the side and me and Mr Bite are back on the seafront at Cassis.

His ‘Saint Jacques’ have been paired with smoked French sausage – a tasty, clever marriage of sweet and smoky flavours.  Stars of the main courses are a firm meaty fillet of Turbot for me, confit fennel bulb, soft red peppers and brandade - an emulsion of salt cod and olive oil. Mr Bite has roasted rack of lamb and the meat is soft, pink and yielding. As with my turbot its flesh has been nicely caramelised on the outside. A delicious dish of grated potatoes, cheese and spinach (layered, rolled and baked in the oven) accompanies La viande. No effort spared here.

Olive puree, pistou, parsley, butter, sauces and herbs appear almost casually on the plate but really point to an authenticity and love for the cuisine of the Le Midi.   Take the spun sugar on my peach tarte tatin; flair beyond the call of duty. I think chef just couldn’t resist showing off whilst he was making the topping for Mr B’s Lavender crème brûlée. The tart is light and sweet with a melting scoop of vanilla ice cream perched on top.

 Our three courses were outstanding. Staff are modest stating they just want to serve simple food but it takes skill to present these dishes plus an understanding of where to source and how to treat produce from source to kitchen to plate.
Most of all it takes l’amour.                  

The owner Jean-Michel pointed out straight away that his is countryside cuisine, representing exclusively the Languedoc cooking of the south.  For a UK French restaurant, it's a bold decision to serve only Languedoc-Roussillon wines (as would happen locally in France, showing the natural harmony of regional food & wine).  The rustic tableware reflects the type of fare offered, but dishes are neatly presented.  The whole is delivered against a clean & sophisticated deep lavender & cream backdrop, complemented by a colourful gallery of rural scenes, with a killer view of Edinburghto boot.

My companion's twice-baked Roquefort soufflé starter (La Garrigue also specialises in fresh daily sweet soufflés), was accompanied by a juicy pear and walnut salad that balanced the dish well.  My own black pudding and apple tian was purist Languedocin that, rather than the crispy-shelled coal-black hot fried Stornoway disc we're used to here, it arrived creamy-textured at room temperature.

I loved my choice of stuffed rabbit with petite poise - the rabbit was tender & flavoursome.  My other half indulged in the magret de canard, for the spurious reason that it came with a croquette, and no croquette escapes unscoffed with him around.  Thankfully he also liked the tender pink duck on its bed of sweet salami-flavoured peppers.  On the generous plateful, one perfect croquette sufficed.

I too have my culinary Achilles heel - floating islands.  La Garrigue's were disappointingly not in the trad quenelle form, being more ramekin than island- shaped.  However, the perfume of pastis in its crème anglaise sea, along with a crispy shard of almond tuile filched from the lavender brûlée across the table, meant it passed my test.

A decent lunchtime deal gives a thoroughly French experience for £15.50, less still if you are unable to commit to a full 3 courses.  Next time, I have my eye on their fennel bouillabaisse with squid & pork sausage, available on the lunch menu, & a glass of walnut wine would be perfect with the Roquefort soufflé - it being quite the done thing to start with a sweeter wine in Languedoc.

La carte des vins showcases the region from £16 up.  I felt comfortable with the helpful wine guidance offered, resulting in a recommendation for Le Mas D'Alezon 2007, a velvety Faugères red from the owner's home village of Bedarieux. This managed to merit its £44 price tag with a smart double-act of rich ripe flavour combined with low alcohol - an ideal lunchtime luxury. (The Go-Between