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For the past century, Edinburgh ice cream has been dominated by businesses set up by Italian families. And yet what they tend to offer is not ice cream as the Italians eat it. In fact, Luca's original recipe was based on one learned at a Scottish hotel from a Swiss chef. And so, while we have a lot of ice cream, gelato is a different story.

But Affogato in the West End is the perfect place to go and learn that story.  Pastry chef Anna Campbell opened the cafe in May after training in Bologna making gelato for an Italian audience. Specialising in fresh gelato and sorbets made daily in house, Affogato boasts an ever-growing repertoire of flavours, ranging from chai tea to caramelised milk. with salted caramel their best seller. There's also a veritable bounty of chocolate variations, all made in differing strengths of Valrhona. The impressive rotating ice cream counter (ideal for mesmerising small people) stocks 18 flavours at a time, and sampling is encouraged.

Gelato is made from milk, not cream. It has a denser, deeper taste than ice cream, with less fat. And it's served at a slightly warmer temperature, meaning - Anna promises- less brain freeze and better perception of flavour. Many of the gelatos are gluten-free, and Affogato's dairy-free sorbets include a popular chocolate flavour, as well as various fruits and Irn Bru. But lest you think that's the most unusual item on offer, she also makes a special gelato for dogs: low on sugar and milk, with a peanut butter flavour.

Gelato is sold by the size, with a (not so) small cup for £2.50 and the largest £3.50. Customers are encouraged to mix flavours and make their own combinations, and with a bit of notice Anna will make one of her gelato flavours to order for a minimum 500mL box (£7). And of course, there's the eponymous affogato: a shot of Illy espresso poured over gelato of choice. There are also a handful of homemade cakes, and sandwich offerings courtesy of Breadwinner. Open until 10pm Tuesday to Saturday (6pm Sunday, closed Monday), it's an ideal place for an evening scoop (or three). There's nothing funny about this ice cream: here's hoping it too becomes an Edinburgh fixture. (R. Edwards)

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