We will know very soon whether we have to wait another year to hear the patter of tiny panda paws. Either way I think Chop
Chop should send a takeaway to Tian Tian. A portion of their dumplings is the
perfect comfort food and far better than bamboo.
Mr Bite and
me pondered this when we visited recently. We went to the original Haymarket
branch, which is still my favourite (there is a second branch in Leith). The canteen-style
decor has improved - ever so slightly
- since my last visit, the food remains superlative.
Renowned for
its dumplings (4, 8, 16 pieces £4.40 -£9.60) we order pork and prawn, pork and
coriander and pork and celery (all boiled) plus beef and chilli (fried). Mr
Bite loves the flavour of the minced meat with celery, but the aromatic
coriander gets the gold star from me. We are splitting hairs though as all are fiendishly
flavoursome, juicy and moreish.
Flavour is
king at Chop Chop. Dumplings are dipped in a mix of chilli, garlic, vinegar and
soy. Cucumber salad is fresh, sweet and tangy; spinach gets frisky with ginger,
aubergines lubricious with garlic and Chinese spices.
Mr B has a
hot and sour soup and he describes an explosion of flavour hitting different
parts of his mouth. I taste the comforting umami of savoury broth.
Mr B then orders
a new dish on the menu, beef stew and when it arrives, although it would feed
three easily, I watch him polish it off.
Cleavered chunks of meat and potato swim in a thick aromatic gravy. The
dish is perfectly tasty and hearty but I am slightly perplexed by its western
character. Hey-ho.
I am saving
room for dessert, sugar string apple (£7.50 feeds two) i.e. chunks of fruit in
a toffee coating which you dip in iced water to crisp up; delicious with
vanilla ice cream and a sprinkling of sesame seeds.
Chop Chop
was bustling with custom for both tables and takeaways when we visited and the
reason is clear; Edinburgh punters know what they like and it is tasty, fresh,
authentic Chinese food. I bet Tian Tian would love it. (S. Wilson)
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