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Restaurant Mark Greenaway
New Review
Restaurant Mark Greenaway
69 North Castle Streeet,
07786924378 (Temporary booking line)
12 - 2.30, 5.30 - 10 Tues - Sat

Brer Rabbit is on my plate. The dish is mosaic of rabbit terrine, carrot mayonnaise, carrot meringues, roasted hazelnuts, baby leaves and pickled walnuts (£8). I love dishes like this. They recall woodland scenes, engage my imagination and make me appreciate winter more via the flavours of its seasonal food.


The pickled walnut is piquant, the terrine chunky. A skinny carrot is full of flavour and roasted hazelnuts have a delightful crunch. Mr Bite is relishing hand-dived Orkney scallops with pomme fondant, tomato jelly, baby herbs and parsley mayo (£11). The scallops are a nod to the small, solid, impressive list of local suppliers.


Main courses are pan-roasted Scottish hake fillet, purple mash, pumpkin, radish, ginger and spring onion broth for me (£19) and eleven hour slow- roasted Clash Farm belly pork, spiced fillet, pomme purée, Savoy cabbage and truffle apple jus for Mr Bite (£18).He has never tasted Mark Greenaways's pork belly and I wear a sly grin as I predict imminent oohing and ahhing.  Sure enough the crackling and moist tender pork go down a treat. His only minor crit is that he would like a little more Savoy cabbage. He thinks it would impart more flavour on the plate.


I agree. For example I would forgo the carrot meringues in my starter for another one those delicious walnuts or skinny veg. But, this is Mark Greenaway's signature style and it has won him a deserved three rosettes. There is no doubting his talent and I appreciate how he leaves you wanting more. Presentation of all dishes is peerless.


My hake is beautifully cooked, golden on the outside, moist inside. The lobster tortellini has perfect al dente texture - again so tantalising. A quenelle-shaped portion of earthy, nutty heritage potatoes is a treat, the broth has full-on flavour.


Little do we know however, that as much as we are enjoying our meal, desserts are about to blow our minds. I have peanut caramel cheesecake, shortbread, toffee sauce, roasted peanuts and iced parfait (£7.50) and for Mr Bite, knot chocolate tart, custard jelly, frozen cookies, crème fraîche parfait, salted caramel and kumquat puree (£7.50).


Mark Greenaway's playfulness is totally apt here. He can and does run riot. I would happily pay double for one of these creations. Not only is my dessert a technical marvel and full of every element you could want from a pud, sweet, nutty, salty, creamy, luscious, shortbread that would make Mary Berry a happy woman, but it passes my own personal 'giggle test'. If it is both brilliant and it makes me giggle like a child it is everything I ever want from food.


Whilst I regress Mr B declares his dessert 'for adults only'. A spectacular wheel of dark bitter chocolate, chocolate mini-cubes, giant milk chocolate buttons, salted caramel rocks, space dust; I don't get a look in but, 'whatever', I am totally happy with my deconstructed 'cheesecake'.


We chose our food from the A La Carte menu but the Market Menu is superb value at £20 for three courses and available for lunch and between 5pm and 6.45pm.


As we go to press Mark Greenaway is due to appear on 'Great British Menu Does Comic Relief' early February. There will be menu changes to complement his TV appearance but never fear, they are bound to be exciting as exciting as the current offering. (S. Wilson)









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