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The Ship
The Ship
New Review
New Review
The Ship On The Shore
4-26 Shore,
[View Map]
0131 555 0409
Food served Mon-Sun noon - 10pm.

Review written August 2011

Fish at The Ship

For those in the know this seafood restaurant and champagne bar on the shore is one of, if not the, finest in Edinburgh. Produce comes from Welch's Fishmonger along the road at Newhaven and is cooked by chefs who evidently revere it.  The ambience is unbuttoned, the wood panelled walls papered with seafaring maps, jazz the music of choice and easy on the ear. Expect to find locals and tourists sharing fruit de mer, delving into cocottes and quaffing fine wines and champagnes.

Mr Bite and me arrived full of anticipation and promptly ordered starters. I chose The Ship's own Bunnahabhain hot and cold smoked salmon with caper salad (£6.50). The cold salmon was thick cut and luscious, the hot, was substantial and  tasty, the peaty smoky whisky, a genius match. A large nicely dressed salad with plump zingy capers completed the plate. A cocotte of buttony surf clams, Serrano ham and roast garlic (£6.50) was devoured by Mr Bite. I managed the occasional lightening- quick swoop however, and the firm flavoursome ham complemented the clams well.  The dish was loaded with garlic, French stylee, and 'bottom of the pan' jus was relished and mopped up with hunks of dripping bread.

For main courses I chose pan-fried fillet of halibut with brown crab, lemon and pea risotto and sun blush tomato pesto (£18.50) and Mr Bite chose the fillet of grey mullet with onion and crayfish pakora, wilted spinach and masala curry sauce (£17.95). Previously at The Ship Mr Bite had declared the fish curry 'the best ever' and tonight the pakora were similarly crowned. We've never had fresher, crunchier or tastier, especially when dunked in the equally fresh, aromatic sauce. Four fillets of mullet with their firm flesh stood up to the spices well. My halibut was equally good and the risotto and pesto made for a pleasantly unctuous plate of food although the peas still popped and the juicy tomato flavour still shone through.  One criticism here, more lemon was needed for zingy acidity; a simple wedge would have done the trick.

A malteser, orange and rum cheesecake (£.5.50) and two spoons heralded the finale of a very tasty evening out. We determined however, that our next visit would be on a weekend when we could indulge in the menu and wine list even further. (S.Wilson)

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