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Lancers Brasserie
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Lancers Brasserie
5 Hamilton Place,
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7 days from 12 noon-11pm.

Lancers is a family restaurant with a heritage. The logo depicts Abdhul Samad Choudhury riding his horse backwards into battle with ladles hanging from his belt. Samad is a great grandparent of the current owners who made his name as a cook in the Bengali Lancers regiment. He was a renowned pacifist who preferred food to fighting. This I can relate to. 

The family have been cooking in Stockbridge since 1985 but the restaurant has had a recent facelift from the family's millenials. Large street front windows now welcome you and Lancer's revival brings added buzz to Hamilton Place. 

The interior and tableware has a regal blue and gold palette, with very subtle ornate touches courtesy of lamps, glassware and a discreet, classy back bar. 

Basking in some late afternoon sunshine I order a pomegranate martini. The blood-red drink is presented in a gold coloured coupe with a mint leaf for garnish. It is juicy and potent without being over sweet. 

The new menu is an appropriate mix of old and new. Starters incorporate street food elements and Mr Bite has prawn tacos whilst I choose spinach and onion pakora. The latter are fresh and crunchy and a wee copper pot of sweet chilli sauce with snips of mint allows for some delicious dunking. The prawns have a good meaty texture and the sauce of veg, tomato and coriander have flavour rather than heat. 

This is a theme throughout unless like Mr Bite you order the venison vindaloo which is billed as hot. He thinks it's excellent. Local butcher George Bowers supplies the game. I pick Lahore Haleem; shredded goat cooked in rich dark gravy with lentils and barley. The meat has a strong flavour which balances the earthy elements and is from the ‘Handi Se' section of the menu, Handi being the large copper pot used to home cook traditional curries. Naan has been blistered in the tandoor and drenched in garlic butter. 

Gulab Jamin is one of Mr B's favourite desserts and this one is suspended elegantly in a double-walled transparent dessert dish as is the cool white Luca's ice cream and my pale orange mango sorbet. It's a theatrical bookend to the equally stunning martini we started with. 

Lancers is a Stockbridge stalwart and this new injection of energy should ensure that it rides on - just like Samad. 

Read or reviews of other Indian Restaurants here 


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