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Prosecco Power

Written by Gareth Groves of Bibendum.

WHEN IT COMES TO SPARKLING WINES THERE ARE TWO TYPES OF DRINKER. THE CHAMPAGNE AFICIONADOS WHO WON'T DRINK ANYTHING THAT ISN'T MADE IN THAT FREEZING COLD CORNER OF FRANCE JUST NORTH OF PARIS, AND THOSE WHO JUST LIKE BUBBLES: CHAMPAGNE, CAVA, AUSTRALIAN...IT REALLY DOESN'T MATTER AS LONG AS IT FROTHS AND FIZZES. AND I THINK IT'S THE FIRST LOT WHO ARE MISSING THE POINT.

Whilst many sparkling wines are pretty uninspiring, especially around the not so magical £5 mark, there are also a lot of winemakers around the world making fantastic quality fizz that has nothing to do with Champagne. If you insist on only drinking champers then you are missing out.

About an hour north of what Ryanair calls Venice, high in the Veneto hills, is Prosecco country. Famous for being the aperitif of choice in fashionable Venetian wine bars and the base of the classic Bellini cocktail, many have seen Prosecco as more style than substance. Good fun but hardly serious wine. However, one producer is on a mission to turn that image around.

The Bisol family has been making wine since Venice was a world superpower and Dom Perignon wasn't even a twinkle in his abbot's eye. Owning a large number of vineyards, they grow all their own fruit, giving them total control of the quality from the moment the vine flowers until the cork is pushed into the bottle. The wines have a fresh purity of fruit with floral, apple and pear notes and a soft, delicate creaminess. Jilly Goolden would say that drinking them is like springtime sunbathing in a blossom-filled orchard.

The pick of the bunch is the single-vineyard Cartizze, from the hill with a reputation for being Prosecco's 'Grand Cru', which adds an extra layer of complexity and freshness to the Bisol style. It might be the most expensive Prosecco you'll ever buy but it's still cheaper than a lot of thin, tart Champagne - and it tastes amazing.

The Fine Wine Company in Musselburgh stocks three Bisol Proseccos

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