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Six by Nico Edinburgh - Guilty Pleasures
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Six by Nico
97 Hanover Street,
Edinburgh,
EH2 1DJ
0131 225 5050

 Nico Simeone has won me over menu by menu since he arrived in Edinburgh. 

Every six weeks, the maverick chef introduces a new six-course tasting menu at his restaurants.

Consequently, there is always a new food story to tell, and until September 29th, the theme is Guilty Pleasures. The focus is on those dishes that may be bad for us but which we can’t help loving.  An open kitchen and live stream video of the chefs at work and full restaurant all contribute to an urbane buzz when I meet Simone to taste chef’s six sinful creations.

We start with his version of Chippie Chips – Pomme Anna with a pickled onion, black garlic emulsion and ewes cheese. Simone and I both comment that the chippie sauce is tangy and chocolate-y. It's a clever dish resented simply combining sweet and salty flavours.  Next up is 'Beans on Toast' or in Nico's world crisp monkfish cheek, broad bean pesto, hazelnut emulsion, quail egg and brown crab toast. There is a signature style here which is a playful balance of taste, texture, attention to detail and artistic composition.  

It’s a close contender for Simone and mine's favourite dish, but Krispy Fried Chicken edges it. Poultry is uber juicy,  the hot wing fried in light, crisp breadcrumbs. A green tomato sauce Vierge has acidity and ketchup is sweet.

Curried cod is accompanied by a caper and raisin puree which nods to African and Mediterranean influences in an Indian dish. It sounds like bizarre fusion food but *trust me* it works. The onion bhaji is purposely charred, and cauli is caramelised, so you get all those nice sweet and smoky combos.

Who doesn't love a Kebab? Lamb Belly almost liquefies in the mouth for our next course.  And last but not least is 'Nutella'. Waffles are toasted until wafer-like. They are made with spelt and hazelnuts; a riff on the chocolate and praline cremeaux underneath a passion fruit and mango espuma.

I find Nico Simeone's food playful and creative, but if it didn't all taste good too, I wouldn't recommend it.

The only criticism is chef’s liberal use of salt. Personally, I don't find this an issue, but some may. Otherwise, he has a ‘thumbs up’ from me. (S. Wilson) 




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