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The Printing Press - Out to Brunch
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The Printing Press
21-25 George Street,
City of Edinburgh,

Service starts in The Printing Press Bar Kitchen at 12.30, so brunch here refers to the menu rather than the time of day.  

It's a generous three-courses for £28 which includes a glass of orange juice or prosecco, so a leisurely graze typical of this 'in-betweeny' meal is very do-able.

To start, we choose from cured meats, olives, salad and sourdough. Salad is pristine with sharp green slices of pepper, cherry tomatoes and curled cerise and white radicchio leaves. Meats and olives are nothing to set the heather on fire but even pedestrian charcuterie works when cuddled by these characteristically bitter salad leaves. An elegant long breadstick is snappy. It’s classy simple Italian fayre.

A 'main' of Smoked Ham Hock, Garden Pea and Isle of Cheddar Potato Cake with tomatoes and an Arran mustard hollandaise tastes even better than it sounds.  This dish is Liz's choice and has plenty of rich, salty pulled meat shaped into two puck-shaped cakes. The sauce has a tang, torpedo-shaped tomatoes are roasted so they are sweet and pendulous on the vine and their skins peel effortlessly.  I have Hot Smoked Salmon which is always a treat, served here with egg cleverly chopped and ‘riced’ finely for cloud-like lightness. The sourdough, by contrast, is too heavy and I find myself tugging at the crust awkwardly to get a bite. A thinner slice crisply toasted would work better.

 Chef Dominic Macciocia’s family are Italians from Auchtermuchty.  He pops along to our table to tell us about his previous experiences at Claridges, Timberyard and Aizle. His passion is evidently for pastry and baking, and a spelt carrot cake and rye brownies form part of his 'dessert buffet'.

A Paris Brest virtually jumps onto my plate. I have been told it’s like a giant Ferrero Rocher, but it's so much better. Light, fluffy choux holds together giant puffs of hazelnut cream and tucked inside, a patch of chocolate mousse. Again the Italian influence is noted, and the nutty flavour makes me dream of Autumn foraging and seasonal pleasures just around the corner.  Liz takes an Orange and Polenta Cake and a Praline Eclair.  We agree these cakes are all about taste and flavour.

Brunch  in the Georgian environs of this New Town Bar & Kitchen is sure to please.   Top Tip: you must save space for pudding; Dominic is 'one to watch'.  

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