An exciting new Turkish restaurant has opened on
Leith Walk.
Kukina has a cosy feel which suits the Scottish climate.
Hipster meets the Middle East with green walls, wood-burning stove, books, copper
touches and lanterns. Although adding scarlet and green cheer I was perplexed
by the 'holly-like' decorations on the left wall as you enter. Turns out it’s Butcher’s
Broom or ‘Kukina’ a Turkish plant with ‘magical properties’. Ah – that explains
it.
The menu revolves around gözlem. Imported Turkish flour, water and salt are kneaded industriously
in the open kitchen and comprise the sole ingredients of the street-food pancakes;
the dough is next rolled into large discs by female cooks who sit in the
window displaying their traditional food-craft. It’s inviting and an
ingeniously simple way to advertise.
Tracy and I shared the gözlem meal for two people for lunch, two gözlem and four Meze with
bread. Flatbreads were well-fired, snappy and presented on a board with four
dips; chopped fruity beetroot in a yoghurt, mayo and garlic dip, tzatziki and
roasted aubergine dip with onion, garlic and sweet peppers. Unfortunately the fourth
wasn't available, but we were happy to double up on beets.
I was a little disappointed with my Lahmacun
gözlem which arrived next as the lamb was a lightly spread and I felt the need for
more meat to balance out the dough. Tracy seemed to enjoy her feta and spinach
version demolishing it with gusto. I am told all ingredients come from a
Turkish importer and are organic.
Our waiter was friendly and helpful and said that
Kukina’s baklava was ‘the best’. I told him that I had recently enjoyed some
seriously impressively baklava at Baba on George St, so the ‘stakes were high’. Un-phased he proudly presented dessert, and it
was excellent; crisp, delicate layers of filo drenched in honey and orange
blossom water plus fresh cream on the side. He usually adds some vanilla paste to the
cream though that wasn’t to hand on this occasion. A pot of mint tea poured
from a copper pot was a refreshing finale.
So, all in all, I find myself yearning to return
to Kukina. From 5 pm the menu extends to
include Turkish sausage, falafel, halloumi, vine leaves, extra ‘sweet things’
and more. I also want to try their
Turkish coffee.
A laid back eatery which I suspect will start to
get lively in the evenings as it grows in popularity. (S. Wilson)
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