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The Boathouse, Loch Leven
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The Boathouse
Pier Road,
Kinross,
KY13 8UF
01577 864380
Closes 5:30pm weekdays open late on Fridays & Saturday.

Given the stunning location of this 75-seater restaurant overlooking Loch Leven and the menu descriptions online (it sounds great) I was keen to try it.

New ownership was a good excuse to drive to Kinross with my friend ‘The Dowager’, to sample the food and put the world to rights. 

The restaurant has candles and fairy lights in abundance to charm night time visitors while daytime diners can watch the water lapping the shores.  It couldn't get more romantic, but unfortunately, the food wasn't up to scratch. 

I am not veggie or vegan but love fruit and vegetables so ordered watermelon salad which was fresh and colourful but too light on ingredients. I expected more red melon on the plate. The Dowager had Cullen skink which was more a stew than a soup; the balance was all wrong with the potato to soup ratio favouring the former; far too heavy for a starter.  

For the main course I ordered the beetroot salad. The portion this time was good, but the beets would have benefited from roasting to bring out their inherent sweetness. As it was, they were 'mouth-puckering'.  Some complementary ingredients such as oranges were needed too and I would have preferred fresh leaves like rocket, chard or seasonal lamb’s lettuce rather than the generic catering salad bag ones. A glug of good olive oil or any dressing was MIA. I did like the fact that different coloured heritage beets had been sourced. It was small consolation.  

The Dowager was very disappointed in her fish pie which recalled the stewy Cullen Skink. The potato topping was stodgy and needed a good slab of butter, some seasoning and a browning.  Herbs wouldn’t have gone amiss and the fish lacked some rich pink salmon chunks. 

All our hopes were pinned on rhubarb crumble twice please! The rhubarb was good but a little oversweet. Again balance was needed this time between tartness, bite and sweetness. Also, the topping sank into the filling making it soggy.  A soggy bottom is bad enough but a soggy topping is unforgivable. 

The Dowager and I succeeded in putting the world to rights but unfortunately could do little with this restaurant.  

I may venture back out of curiosity for coffee and cake and to test the waters again.  

The Boathouse has a lot going for it; beautiful location and views, good interior and local feel and potentially a perfect pit stop for cyclists, ‘twitchers’ and walkers.

I hope an improvement in the kitchen comes soon. (S.Wilson)         

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