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One Square - Eleven out of Ten
New Review
One Square
The Sheraton Hotel & Spa,
1 Festival Square,
Edinburgh,
EH1 9SR
0131 229 9131

What mark out of ten would you give for the meal overall, I ask Mr Bite. Eleven he replies. 

He is polishing off pistachio and dark chocolate pot with rhubarb, pistachio and citrus and comments that the just-poached fruit is sweet and tart and the dish as a whole has a  host of exciting textures.  This side of the table my tarte tatin has caused me to exclaim:"I will never finish it”! But when clotted cream ice cream and custard foam melt seductively over chunky sweet apples and buttery pastry, resistance is futile. Reader, demolishing it even after two other courses is a breeze. 

Vegetables are vibrant enough to be freshly dug from the garden. Great Scottish produce, well-judged seasoning and use of herbs are just some of the factors which result in delicious plates of food devised by new executive chef Shaun Woodhouse. 

Starters had set the scene. Pure white crab meat for Mr Bite is served with apple and coriander; delicate rose pink discs of fresh radish on top. I have fat grassy spears of seasonal asparagus with a sticky, creamy puree of potato and parmesan with truffle and crispy chicken skin. Yes, it is as decadent and tasty as it sounds. 

For the main course, skate wing with crispy capers (nice detail) sounds terrific, but I fancy Shetland salmon. It arrives garnished with alternate wheels of kohlrabi and lemon which is clever as the latter infuses the former with essence and looks pretty too. The lemon is sweet enough to eat. Bearnaise is thick and generous, and the fish has distinctive flavour. It is cooked spot on – still tender in the middle. Fennel and large fronds of dill are classic complements.  Chips are hand-cut, twice-cooked from real potatoes and well seasoned. Top Tip: the sides feed two people comfortably.

Mr Bite's crab hails from Orkney, and he decides to order rump cap steak sourced from the island too. Prime cuts are dry-aged for 28 days, and his is served with watercress and a shallot and bone marrow sauce. Cooked rare and tender a thick layer of fat imparts deep flavour; superb value at £22.50 for 220 grammes. 
 
A map on the menu reveals the provenance of produce such as pork from Ardrossan and squat lobster from the West Coast.

One Square has shifted position over the years travelling from fine dining to what is now a modern Brasserie.

Three courses of superb food times two and One Square zooms into our mental list of highly recommended eateries. Top marks. (S. Wilson)

 


 

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