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Six by Nico Edinburgh - Cooking Paris
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Six by Nico
97 Hanover Street,
0131 225 5050

Fancy a quick trip to Paris for lunch? No need for the Eurostar, just head to Chez Nico Simeone for his 'Cooking Paris' menu. 

Every six weeks Nico introduces a new six-course taster menu at his Glasgow and Edinburgh restaurants which must be as exciting for his team of chefs as it is for us punters.  

For some reason, 'Paris' went under my radar when launched but as soon as I cottoned on I hot-footed it down to Hanover Street. 

First on the plate is 'Snacks', Nico's take on Croque Monsieur. Bread pudding is gutsy with salty ham and cheese in thin béchamel-type sauce; petit in appearance, robust with flavour.

Next, sweet onions inside a bubbling Vesuvius-like Comte espuma or 'French Onion Soup' which feature again in 'Coq Au Vin' curled up alongside a chicken terrine. Here they house mustard seeds that pop in the mouth creating a counterpoint to juicy meat pressed inside thin layers of baked filo. 

Charred gem lettuce, petit pois and slow-cooked egg is a light, breezy course to balance the previous rich ones as is delicate sole or ' Bouillabaisse' deconstructed with sweet red peppers, a blob of burnt saffron-coloured rouille and confit fennel.

The chefs in the open kitchen aren't putting a foot wrong here, and the perfection continues. 

'Beef Bourguignon' is ox cheek meat with mushroom duxelle, and glossy slate-coloured puree so silky and shroomy I could quite happily swan-dive into a vat of it. Butternut squash is sweet as toffee. 

Dessert is crème brûlée which, out of the hundreds (yes really) I have eaten, I would happily crown the best;  its consistency is so light.  Pink peppercorn spiked shards of meringue and cheffy touches of rose, lychee, raspberry plus a quenelle of lemon mousse are shamelessly demolished.

With previous menus Monsieur Simeone has had misses as well as hits but not here. Dix Points. 



(S. Wilson)

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