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Southside Scran - from nature to plate
New Review
Southside Scran
14- 17 Bruntsfield Place,
Edinburgh,
EH10 4HN
0131 342 3333

Tom Kitchin has been busy building his hospitality empire. Last year he added The Bonnie Badger in Gullane and Southside Scran to his roll call of restaurants which also includes Scran and Scallie in Stockbridge, the eponymous Michelin-starred Kitchin and a joint venture with Dominic Jack, Castle Terrace.

It is notoriously difficult to maintain consistency when you spread your culinary wings, but Tom Kitchin appears to have had no issues if a recent dining experience at this latest Bruntsfield venture is typical.

Peeking inside from the street is prevented by half curtains that remind you of an impromptu lunch at a roadside café in France; Prix Fixe and a half carafe of red s’il vous plait.

Once inside, however, décor is inviting and stylish. A slick, professional team spring into action and lead you past a cheerful woodburning stove and feature rotisserie grill into the dining room.  Here a palette of dark sea green, petrol blue and charcoal is softened by toffee and blush coloured fabrics and textures of wood and leather. This creates a discreet ambience made cosy by bespoke lighting.

We are hungry so chicken liver parfait topped with a jelly of apple juice and Calvados as an appetizer is welcome. Pâté is heaped onto fresh rounds of baguette, crunchy cornichons are added and it is all popped into our mouths.

Starters are refined. Teeny capers and bits of lemon flesh mingle with mandolin-sliced North Sea octopus carpaccio. It is all drizzled with full-bodied golden single estate olive oil from Provence. Mr Bite has shellfish ravioli (langoustine) sitting on a delicate spaghetti of vegetables over which a classic bisque is poured .

Our main courses are twists on posh Sunday lunches. For Mr B sirloin wagyu. That’s the Japanese premium beef where the cattle are rumoured to live a life of pampered luxury. The fat content is of the good-for-you kind (omega 3 and 6) and melts at low temperature. This gives a distinctive velvety mouthfeel. I have a whole sea bream which is removed from the bone at our table. This is a formidable a fish with luxuriosly creamy flesh.  Sides are crunchy green beans with well-toasted hazelnuts and roasted roots.  Unfortunately Yorkshire pudding is dry. When you cook this favourite you will be compared with mum and I am afraid it didn't pass the litmus test.  

For dessert, I chose rotisserie pineapple with rum sauce and vanilla ice cream which had just the right mix of tropical fruit and alcohol to be a delicious digestif. Mr Bite swooned over perfect, silky chocolate tart.

Southside Scran’s benchmark appears to be top notch French bistros and it delivers. (S. Wilson)


 








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