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In Vino Veritus 

Gaucho is swanky; gleaming surfaces, sparkling glassware, glinting wine bottles. The famous Argentinean steak house has joined Dishoom, the Refinery and The Ivy in St Andrews Square. 

In Vino Veritus, in wine there is truth, declared my invitation to a steak and Malbec tasting, hosted by Phil Crozier Director of Wines for Gaucho. Meat and Malbec, hell yes, I was in.

Coats were whisked and deposited in the cloakroom (how civilised) and our party was seated in the private dining room. Two glass walls look out onto 120 covers in the open plan restaurant. The other walls are lined with wine. 

Phil Crozier knows his wine. He started in the hospitality trade in his early teens and has worked his way up. 130 Argentinean wines have been selected for Gaucho some of which are exclusive to them and produced at the vineyard in Mendoza. We got to taste 5 or 6 Malbecs whilst Phil explained how each are characterized by the geography and terroir of Argentina. 

Group Executive Chef – Jamie Robertson – famous for working Jamie Oliver, but born and bred in Bonnyrigg, showed us the different cuts of steak on the menu, sirloin, fillet, rump and rib-eye. For me, the latter with its marbled lines of fat will always win on flavour.  He also served us carpaccio sliced straight from fillet at the table and marinated immediately in chimmichurri. You could simply pull the meat apart, no knife needed. 

‘The best I have tasted’ is an overused phrase in reviews but if it applies to anything it applies to the chips at Gaucho. Twice-fried, I am sure in beef dripping, they were demolished with gusto. My plus one Connie was enchanted by corn empanadas; sweetcorn whisked with provolone and chives, parcelled and presented in the blanched and baked husks. Connie runs the Edinburgh Salon supper club. If you are a regular I suspect you may be treated to this delicacy in future.

A dulce de leche cheesecake with salted caramel sauce crowned our decadent night out and although full we still scraped our plates shamelessly. 

If you are up for a full-bodied, red-blooded night out with good food and wine, you won’t be disappointed by Gaucho. (S. Wilson) 

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