"I'm with her!"
Our waitress at Dine has been a star all
evening. Her smiley demeanour and menu recommendations have been spot on, and
now she is singing the praises of the dark chocolate tart saying charred orange
is a classic flavour pairing. I agree and tell Eleonora I trust the waitress. E
decides to have a dessert cocktail. Done.
When the tart arrives, it has crisp pastry,
dense chocolate and burnt white chocolate crumbs. All components impress but E,
like a true Italian, feels the salted caramel ice cream isn't needed. It comes
from Stewart Towers who make immaculately pure
tasting Italian gelato, and this is no exception. Cards on the table I know Chef
Stuart Muir and his approach to dessert is generous. He would rather over
deliver.
Rewind to starters and the waitress had
recommended the roast quail for me. It is expertly cooked achieving the
tenderness of moist chicken. Puy lentils are al dente, and I get a delicious reminder of just how phenomenally, soft and spicy Stornoway black pudding
is. Presentation is colourful and artistic. Eleonora's celeriac veloute
announces itself with the scent of garlic and truffle oil. She enjoys this
refined, delicate dish.
Halibut, a king of fish, comes on a shimmering
iridescent shell-like plate. It is crispy golden on top, white and meaty and
then moist in the middle. Artichokes are an earthy yet zingy complement. Supermodel
skinny carrots are dusted in tempura while the mash is as smooth and rich as
George Clooney. Eleonora cannot believe how tender her venison is - a Szechwan and juniper crust is original and lends
spice and perfume. She thinks it is a very well balanced dish.
Her dessert cocktail is Creme a la Edmund where sweetness
isn't sacrificed for alcohol. Vanilla infused Chairman's Reserve Rum, Amaretto,
Kahlua, a double cream float and scorched Demerara sugar may be ‘liquified
dessert’ but with X-rated potency. The waitress insisted it remain on the cocktail list when other changes were made.
Dine is above the Traverse theatre and is a
beautiful brasserie to relax in. A feature olive tree breaks up a curvy space and
design is classy as befits an official partner of the Edinburgh International Festival. Service is flawless, and Stuart Muir remains the youngest
ever chef to bag three Michelin stars.
His approach to food, however, remains homely. Expect
tasty dishes which display shy expertise and put local produce centre stage. (S. Wilson)
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