Margo by Cate Devine

When it comes to expanding the family in the current era of austerity, you might expect any parents to ca’ canny and keep it small. But not Scoop, the ambitious Scottish hospitality group that began life with street food and residencies, progressed to its first restaurant, Ox and Finch, in Glasgow’s Kelvingrove in 2014, and grew with Ka Pao six years later in the city’s West End (and later a second in Edinburgh’s St James Quarter). Scoop has now introduced its latest - and largest - offspring, affectionately christened Margo bang-slap in the city centre.  It’s big, bold and confident, all plate glass windows, traditional clay render, architectural metalwork, original brickwork salvaged light fittings and gorgeous wooden furniture. Its open kitchen runs the length of the ground floor space and is also in full view of diners on the mezzanine who can watch the impressively coordinated’ kitchen brigade in action from on high. The space is flexible: you can sit at the counter, in a booth, at a large table or at a table for two. The result is a buzzing, energetic space that suits the sturdy 19th-century sandstone building that cheerfully echoes Glasgow’s industrial heyday.  Though part of the same family of restaurants, Margo doesn’t feel like a chain. It already feels like a grown-up individual in its own right, albeit parented by Scoop founders Jonathan McDonald and Danial Spurr, and the brilliant front-of-house Scooper Paige Wilson. There’s an in-house bakery, butchery and pasta made from scratch. There’s no tasting menu or wine flight. Every dish on the carefully curated menu is made to order. If that menu - printed in sections - is initially rather daunting to get your head around, fully trained staff are on hand to explain - with infinite patience to my eternal gratitude - how it works: you can choose from snacks, small, medium and large dishes, ranging from £5 to £50, plus sides, all designed to be shared. And - hallelujah - they arrive at the table when ready but always in sequence rather than lumped together. I like that it makes you read the whole thing, and think carefully about your choice.  The system speaks of the incredible skill and experience of the kitchen brigade, headed by long-standing Scooper Rob Aitken (who joined Ox and Finch ten years ago) with the temporary addition of Craig Nelson,  previously of Ox and Finch  and the renowned Harwood Arms in London, who will head the team at Ox and Finch when it re-opens. There are 28 dishes including sides and excluding six desserts. A pair of ham hough croquettes arrive, crispy and crowned with shaved Parmesan. They’re hot and smoky with paprika and guindillas - a good start and delicious with a glass of Georgian Bugeuli, Pirosmani red. Two large Uist scallops are split and sit atop a bed of haricot beans, smoky and pungent with sobrasada and paprika. A skin-on cod fillet falls over black squid ink rice, its mouthfeel enhanced by crispy tempura sea vegetables lending a further saline hit.  I’m glad we’ve gone for the seafood first because the coup de theâtre is a large platter of half Creedy Carver duck. Prepared four ways - breast, leg, confit and a stand-out liver parfait topped with a dollop of citrus marmalade - this is the dish I’ll return for. Plus maybe the lamb faggot with Bonnet polenta, which I somehow missed but have subsequently heard is excellent. I have the dessert special of figs, almond cream and fig leaf granita; a beautiful-looking dish with a nutty creaminess, seasonal sweetness and an ice-cold hit. The Scoop family has nurtured a loyal customer base since the company’s embryonic days. Margo is full when I visit and it’s good to know she is in good hands. Margo, 68 Miller St, Glasgow G1 1DT.  Open seven days a week, lunch and dinner.