Locanda De Gusti by Anne Pia

Dalry Road Edinburgh’s Haymarket is in metamorphosis ... expanding, re-generating, fashioning a new identity. Once a somewhat run-of-the-mill thoroughfare, a place of interchange, transitions, trains and way-going, almost overnight, Haymarket now bubbles and bustles with new life; by day a glossy metropolis… inter-city travellers, commuting cyclists, garrulous rugger enthusiasts bound for Murrayfield, techie gurus, ultra-cool office dwellers and curious tourists, all spilling and filling new-dressed streets. By night, alongside Leith, Stockbridge, and Bruntsfield, Haymarket is a place to be… Here, vibrant, intriguing eateries and cocktail mixologists have sprung up and found home. Haymarket is the top spot for authentic flatbreads, hot pot dining, and an increasingly wide range of options for Greek street food, Japanese sushi, and reliable Italian traditional fare. Rosario It is here, within a small corner of Italian eateries in Dalry Road, that Locanda de Gusti run by Rosario Sartore, family and friends have welcomed guests for over a decade. Fresh fish & seafood is a staple Sartore, celebrated chef par excellence. Sartore, with a unique talent for taste, with a passion and such an instinctive understanding of wholesome, simple, quality ingredients that continually fuel his daily adventures and innovations in his kitchen. Sartore towers; held in high regard by the Italian community itself ( no mean feat!) and a much wider customer base of discerning Edinburgh residents and savvy visitors to the city. He is a unique treasure in his continual showcasing of the sheer range and diversity…it isn’t all about pasta and pizza… of Italian, to be specific southern Italian, food. In Sartore’s hands, the humble frittata made surprisingly of aubergine and basil and served on a bed of aubergine cream is enobled; a chunk of yesterday’s bread is elevated in a delicious Panzanella of among other things, summered, oozing tomatoes, and a crisp nugget or two of celery. Locanda de Gusti needs little additional praise than the accolades already heaped on this wonderfully joyful place of spin and bustle, sometimes a bar or two of song, of hugging and kissing, grace and flourish. Sartore’s restaurant excels in quality, service and in customer experience. Pasta, patate e provola With many happy memories of past visits… heaped platters of seafood thick-layered with giant langoustines, meaty scallops, clams, salmon and fresh tuna which had our American guests wide-eyed and suddenly very hungry; of locally sourced organic lamb chops, delicate and sweet, soft as butter at Easter; of fresh pappardelle, vibrant in a richly effulgent aubergine, sweet Sicilian and San Marzano tomato ragú.. summer sunshine on a cold December night, we paid another visit. The organic chicken meatball starter in a smoky artichoke velouté was a delight. The heaped dish of cannellini beans with fresh anchovies, laced with wispy brown onion and the merest hint of tomato, came like a fine red wine…chambré, its bouquet tangy, its finish memorable. Pastas were the main course of choice. Orecchiette from Puglia stood up very well to a chunky ragú of tomato and organic lamb shoulder and an indulgent, tangy olive oil. Ravioli filled with fresh ricotta still lingers as a food experience… mild and delicate, in a slightly salt-sweet sage and light-filled butter sauce which clung like honey and melted with each mouthful. There is never room for a dessert after such decadence, but the affogato, carefully sourced ice cream on a well-made espresso, is always a more than satisfactory end to a fine meal. To eat here is like eating in one of the best restaurants in Naples but with the added twist of Scottish ingredients and imagination. To eat here is to explore and learn, to broaden your horizons. And to leave well-fed. That is Rosario’s sincere gift. Locanda De Gusti, 102 Dalry Road, Edinburgh, EH11 2DW - 0131 346 8800 Open - Mon, Tues, Wed - 5.30 - 10 pm, Thursday 12.30 pm - 3.30 pm and 5.30 pm - 10 pm, Friday 12.30 pm - 3.30 pm, 5.30 pm - 10 pm, Saturday 12.30 pm - 10 pm