Wine & Peach, Dalry

Dalry is a somewhat noisy, polluted, littered neighbourhood albeit positively buzzing. And as is so often the case in cities, this is where you find the little local places that sparkle. The late Anthony Bourdain, if visiting Edinburgh, would make a bee-line for Dalry. Wine and Peach is the third addition to Rosario Sartore's burgeoning Dalry empire joining Pizzeria 1926 and Locanda de Gusti. All exist within a fruit stone's throw of each other and, no doubt keep Rosario's two sons, Ciro and Santo, out of mischief as they run 1926 and Wine and Peach, respectively. Wine and Peach, like the seafood-focused Locanda opposite, has a Mediterranean kitchen feel. A tiled floor depicting sunflowers and white and blue walls could be stark and cold, were they not balanced by splashes of colour, shelves of wine, and homely knick-knacks, so you feel like you are dining at Nonna's house. The restaurant is named after a particular type of Peach, "Noce Persica", abundant in the summer in Southern Italy. A jug is filled with red or white wine, and quartered peaches are added. This is chilled, drunk, and then the fruit is scooped out for dessert. We arrive at 5pm, and there is a deal on – four tapas-sized dishes with either two cocktails or a bottle of wine for £29.95. A no-brainer offer which will run throughout July on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays. Courgette-flowers have thin, crispy batter and a drizzle of honey. I seriously consider ordering more, although there are plenty for two in the one cone. They combine the sweet naughtiness of a fried doughnut with fresh vegetable crunch while a quick pinch of sea salt concentrates flavour. My second choice is Arancini which benefit from "San Marzano sugo kisses" and a swirly mozzarella veloute. I am a little perplexed by Simone's choice of smoked sausage in a chickpea cocido (‘cos smoked sausage just screams chippie to me), but it's a highlight. I ask about it and the bandana-wearing female chef tells me through the kitchen hatch they import it from Greece. Flavour is knockout, and a generous punch of lemon through the stew a final clever touch. We have tiramisu and orange polenta cake next, desserts that make you glad to be alive. The final bill is still below £50 for two people. Santo also shakes a mean Peach Daiquiri. I learn later from the website that he has attended the European Bartending School in London, and it shows. Service is relaxed, cheerful and we never feel hurried. I predict that Wine and Peach is going to be very popular. A double-edged sword as I would like to eat there every day.

Wine & Peach, Dalry