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- La P'tite Folie
Review written February 2009
Aka 'The Little Madness'
I HAVE ALWAYS LIKED VIRGINIE BROUARD’S RESTAURANT FOR IT’S FOOD, COSY AMBIENCE, HEAVILY-ACCENTED STAFF AND PICTURES OF DENEUVE AND BARDOT ADORNING THE WALLS. A RECENT VISIT HOWEVER, REVEALED THAT IT HAS UPPED ITS GAME. THE DISHES APPEARING ON OUR TABLE WERE LESS 'BISTRO' AND MORE WELL-EXECUTED CLASSICS. AT THE CHEESE COURSE WE DISCOVERED THAT THE NEW CHEF HAD TRAINED WITH PAUL BOCUSE (THREE MICHELIN STARS) WHOSE RESTAURANT IS IN THE GASTRO CAPITAL OF FRANCE, LYON.
To start, my partner had steak tartare with capers, gherkins, shallots and quail egg (£5.95) and I chose crispy tiger prawns with beansprouts, pepper and soya (£6.50 - Bocuse's Asian influence?). The former was a shapely portion of meat with a cute quail’s egg on top and a flourish of maroon lollo rosso to the side. The presentation respected the food and true to form the meat was juicy and the rich dish cut through with zingy capers. A delicacy to be savoured. My prawns were big and meaty and the colourful, fresh, shredded, salad complemented them well whilst the soy-based dressing was very tasty.
For mains I have the classic Marseille bouillabaisse (£16.50) and my partner had roast breast of Barbary duck with potato rosti and vegetable tian (£15.50). The centrepiece of my stew were the large chunks of bass and salmon whilst plump mussels decorated the rim of the plate like the points of a starfish; a classic dish steeped in saffron. The rich yellow, full-bodied rouille consisted of potatoes, saffron, garlic and olive oil. My partner's duck formed a fan of thick, succulent pink slices on her plate. They had been coated with a sweet balsamic demi-glace and the balance of sweet and savoury was just right. A hint of chilli gave a hint of heat.
For dessert we decided to share cheese (£5.80) but Jean Luc 'persuaded' us to order the chocolate fondue also (£4.80). A nutty, tangy, complex Tomme De Savoie and a creamy, full-flavoured Brie de Meaux were perfect. Fondue was a pot of melted 61% chocolate with marshmallows, strawberries and pieces of apple and pear. Two women, two spears, and two beaming faces signalled a happy end to a wonderful meal.
Charlene Ann Revie (26th March 2012), Rated: 5
An underrated gem in the heart of the city
I’ve been going through a run of bad dining experiences lately. Meals showing up late, appalling service and random items that I hadn’t ordered appearing on restaurant bills have all led to me becoming disillusioned by the Edinburgh restaurant scene. However, a trip to La P’tite Folie on Hanover Street soon restored my faith in the culinary delights of the city.
La p’tite folie – roughly translated as “the little madness” - is situated in two convenient locations in the New Town. I visited the Frederick Street branch on a Friday night and was immediately met with a warm welcome. The décor of the small restaurant was a sharp contrast to a dark and windy Friday night. The deep red walls are decorated with authentic French movie posters, the mood for night-time dining achieved by soft candlelight and attractive pine tables, creating a stylish yet cosy atmosphere. The restaurant achieved the perfect mix of seeming intimate and exclusive whilst still suitably busy and the gentle chatter of other customers provided a warm, lively and homely atmosphere.
The staff were immediately attentive and helpful, waiting patiently while I perused the impressive menu. The food selection at La Petite Folie focuses on quality rather than quantity and offers six choices of starters and mains, including one vegetarian selection. Typical French fare can be found such as steak, fish and chicken, cooked the French way. I chose the herb-encrusted fillet of cod served with crushed potatoes, roasted cherry tomatoes and a medley of vegetables. Despite eating my weight in crisp French bread whilst waiting for it to arrive, I still found room for the meal, a credit to the sensible portion size. The flavours were intense and merged perfectly together, the crushed potatos were rich, creamy and soft, and the fish was perfectly cooked, the breadcrumbs adding a zingy kick to the dish. The portion was generous without being overly filling. My friends tried the goats cheese and pepper terrine, served with rocket and raved about it’s taste and quality. At £23.50, the main dish of steak is not cheap, but the high quality cooking makes it worth it. The other dishes on the menu are relatively cheaper at £15-16, but it’s fair to say that La p’tite folie is not a choice for diners looking for a cheap and cheerful meal.
Of course, no meal is complete without a desert and I immediately picked the chocolate fondant, a delicious chocolate slice filled with a melting chocolate middle, dusted with icing sugar and served with fresh, rich cream. It was rich, velvety smooth and although heavy, a glass of Kir Royale washed it down nicely.
With it’s atmosphere, quality cooking and friendly staff, La p’tite folie is an underrated gem in the Edinburgh restaurant scene. It’s quirky nature combined with delicious, well-cooked food is ideal for diners who want something a bit different from their dining experience.