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Enzo Bar & Restaurant
New Review
Enzo
8 Lister Square,
Quarternmile,
Edinburgh,
Midlothian,
EH3 9GL
0131 229 4634

The Quartermile complex, on the edge of the Old Town, is a juxtaposition of the Victorian baronial sandstone buildings of the old Royal Infirmary with contemporary glass and industrial structures. Hidden in the middle is a square of bars, hotel, cafes and restaurants, the newest being ENZO, the brainchild of the team behind Steak, Fish and 99 Hanover St. This latest venture is an unfolding of their passion for Italian culture, especially for Michele Civiera, who has Italian blood running through his veins. 

The menu truly reflects his heritage. From robust sharing plates of meats to 30-egg yolk tagliolini with ragu to mains of Ligurian influence.  

The husband, had a starter size of the authentic carbonara (main course £10) - al dente pasta, egg, smoked pig cheek and Parmesan; simple ingredients will do it every time. My carne crudo of carpaccio and tartare of beef served with a semi-soft quail's egg (£8) was superb, the meat needed a touch more seasoning.

For secondi piatti, I chose rabbit Ligurian style with olives and pine nuts (£16). A moist leg and the loin wrapped in pancetta, looking like a pink bobtail, with a side of liver chopped and cooked in a sweet sauce. Polished and delicious.

He had Tuscan fish soup, cacciucco in cocotte (£20) - stacked like piscatorial jenga; the langoustine so perfectly cooked it leapt from its shell without hesitation, red mullet perched on top of sea bass with mussels, prawns and some of the sweetest and softest squid ever, provocatively peeping out from the tomato broth. Crispy croutons added texture. Our only wee gripe was both dishes could have been hotter.

Now for the puddings! I headed straight to the tantalising sounding almond thuile millefoglie (£7); crispy biscuit layers with rich custard and juicy red berries, bellisima! The chocolate fondant with its gloriously squidgy, oozy centre came with a spiced vanilla ice cream (£7); the spice being chilli gave a fiery finish to the meal.

ENZO also has a delicious bar menu with antipasti, pizza and cocktails but our next visit will be either for breakfast or a lazy Sunday brunch. And, if the weather is warm, it'll be al fresco! (L. Harris) 

 

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