October 2010

Best bistro in Britain?

I have always liked La Garrigue. The name refers to the wild and rural Languedoc region of France, which borders Catalonia. Loving the area, I feel a genuine affinity for the characteristic cuisine that proprietor Jean Michel Gauffre faithfully reproduces at his charming restaurant. I had already experienced one of my best meals of 2010 at La Garrigue, so when I heard that he was to appear on Gordon Ramsay’s Best Restaurant programme I thought it was high time for a return visit, this time for Saturday lunch with the girls.

The lunch deal is a competitive £13.50 for 3 courses. Starters were a partridge, lentil and chanterelle salad for me, salmon brandade, mackerel and aioli for Rayne and a lamb shank terrine for Simone. My lentils were cooked perfectly, the partridge was juicy, the mushrooms slippery and earthy; bright emerald, ruby veined chard completed the plate. Simone commented that her terrine had a good texture and delicate flavour whilst Rayne declared hers perfectly balanced and delicious. Fresh, seasonal, well thought out dishes.

Mains were polenta cake with chanterelles for Rayne and sea bass fillets with Camargue rice and mussels for Simone and me. The polenta cake was creamy and tasty and a swirl of basil oil dressing was appreciated. Simone and I however, thought that our dish didn’t quite work. The rice was oily and too rich for the delicate fish, it was cooked the wrong side of al dente and the fish itself needed seasoning and was served too hot.

Desserts were good. Rayne and I plumped for apple turnovers, with scoops of vanilla; a swirl of raspberry sauce and flecks of orange zest for finishing touches. Simone had a rosewater crème brulee which she thoroughly enjoyed and I was a little jealous as I imagined the delicate flavour combining with the rich, luscious cream.

A bottle of fresh, clean Les Costieres de Nimes was unanimously enjoyed. The wine list at La Garrigue is worth more than a second look. You will find wine that doesn’t merely compliment your food but that positively enhances your whole dining experience.

A nice lunch in a pleasant ambience, was Gordon right?

LA GARRIGUE DISTINGUISHES ITSELF FROM OTHER FRENCH RESTAURANTS BY THE NATURE OF THE FOOD IT SERVES. THE RESTAURANT IS NAMED AFTER AN AREA OF SCRUBLAND TYPICAL OF THE SCORCHED SOUTH OF FRANCE EARTH AND THE CUISINE IS ROOTED IN THIS EARTH. IT IS PEASANT FAYRE FROM THE LAND, WHAT GROWS AND GRAZES ON IT. FRESHNESS, FLAVOUR AND SLOW COOKING ELEVATE THE STATUS OF WHAT IS AT HEART SIMPLE FOOD.

That said I took a slight geographical detour with my starter of pissaladiere aux sardines grilles, a thin and crispy onion tart topped with grilled sardines and a speciality of Nice. It was sublime. Filleted silver darlings, so fresh they could have been tickling your toes in the Med (or Atlantic!) that very morning, sat on a thick layer of sweet, caramelized onions atop a pastry base chewy with the soaked juices of its toppings. My partner fared just as well with his croquette of pig's head, glazed apple and blackberry dressing. Shredded, juicy meat was rolled into a ball and given a crispy coat. The apples and berries recalled what a cochon would snuffle for in the French countryside and the natural sweetness of both complemented the meat.

Main course for me was a classic cassoulet; lingot beans, pork, lamb, duck confit and bits of Toulouse sausage, the odd clove of sweet roasted garlic, and a gratin topping all served authentically in a small earthenware pot. The beans were creamy, the meats oozed flavour and when the crispy gratin was broken, the steam wafted through the restaurant contributing to the general perfume that makes LG the best smelling restaurant in Edinburgh. My partner devoured slowly braised lamb shank with honey, vegetable ratatouille and rosemary mashsil dressing. The meat fell from the bone as if ther latter was unzipping and discarding a jacket and the ratatouille was pronounced an exciting, magical accompaniment.

Dessert had to be crème brulee with its glassy toffee top which splintered to reveal a luscious, thick, custard cream subtly infused with lavender. And the last word goes to the extras of the evening; the fresh, home-made onion bread, the side salads of sprightly, lightly dressed, garden leaves and of course the wine of the Languedoc-Roussillon terroir.