Review Written September 2008
Le Terroir

LA GARRIGUE DISTINGUISHES ITSELF FROM OTHER FRENCH RESTAURANTS BY THE NATURE OF THE FOOD IT SERVES. THE RESTAURANT IS NAMED AFTER AN AREA OF SCRUBLAND TYPICAL OF THE SCORCHED SOUTH OF FRANCE EARTH AND THE CUISINE IS ROOTED IN THIS EARTH. IT IS PEASANT FAYRE FROM THE LAND, WHAT GROWS AND GRAZES ON IT. FRESHNESS, FLAVOUR AND SLOW COOKING ELEVATE THE STATUS OF WHAT IS AT HEART SIMPLE FOOD.

That said I took a slight geographical detour with my starter of pissaladiere aux sardines grilles, a thin and crispy onion tart topped with grilled sardines and a speciality of Nice. It was sublime. Filleted silver darlings, so fresh they could have been tickling your toes in the Med (or Atlantic!) that very morning, sat on a thick layer of sweet, caramelized onions atop a pastry base chewy with the soaked juices of its toppings. My partner fared just as well with his croquette of pig's head, glazed apple and blackberry dressing. Shredded, juicy meat was rolled into a ball and given a crispy coat. The apples and berries recalled what a cochon would snuffle for in the French countryside and the natural sweetness of both complemented the meat.

Main course for me was a classic cassoulet; lingot beans, pork, lamb, duck confit and bits of Toulouse sausage, the odd clove of sweet roasted garlic, and a gratin topping all served authentically in a small earthenware pot. The beans were creamy, the meats oozed flavour and when the crispy gratin was broken, the steam wafted through the restaurant contributing to the general perfume that makes LG the best smelling restaurant in Edinburgh. My partner devoured slowly braised lamb shank with honey, vegetable ratatouille and rosemary mashsil dressing. The meat fell from the bone as if ther latter was unzipping and discarding a jacket and the ratatouille was pronounced an exciting, magical accompaniment.

Dessert had to be crème brulee with its glassy toffee top which splintered to reveal a luscious, thick, custard cream subtly infused with lavender. And the last word goes to the extras of the evening; the fresh, home-made onion bread, the side salads of sprightly, lightly dressed, garden leaves and of course the wine of the Languedoc-Roussillon terroir.