Review written June 2009
Effortlessly Urbane.

EVERY NOW AND THEN A DINING EXPERIENCE COMES ALONG THAT SURPASSES EXPECTATION. CERTAIN CRITERIA MUST BE MET BUT OVER AND ABOVE E.G GOOD FOOD, SUBJECTIVIVITY COMES INTO PLAY TO TIP THE BALANCE AND TAKE A RESTAURANT FROM GOOD TO ‘THE BEST’ AND SIMPLY PUT, HDV DOES IT FOR ME.

The location is old town charming with a cobbled courtyard for al fresco dining and a comfortable cigar bothy for smokers. Inside, the bistro is classic French i.e. bustling ambience, good food, good wine.

The sommelier chose our wine, a Muscadet 2006, which perfectly complemented our meal; dry, floral and zesty with hints of juicy tropical fruit and a creamy full body. For starters, my partner was presented with an Everest of a soufflé, Isle of Mull Cheddar, (£5.75) whilst I had soup de poisson( £5.50). Both excellent, my soup had layers of flavour and depth and lots of fishy bits whilst the soufflé was pronounced to have a fine texture and just the right balance of cheese.

For mains, I chose the special, brill with a samphire, tomato and fennel salad (£16.95) and my partner plumped for smoked haddock cassoulet (£13.75). The latter was creamy and comforting with a cheesy crust and choc full of haddock chunks; a dish to return for. My main consisted of two curling fillets of creamy, white fish in a foamy champagne sauce and a very pretty, colourful salad. It was beautifully presented on slate but pleasure was equally found in the tasty perfectly timed fish, crunchy fennel, vibrant green samphire, slithers of tomato and sprinkling of puy lentils. Light and delicious it was summer on a slate.

The dessert menu was really exciting. A proper cheese trolley (£8.50) beckoned but I couldn’t resist iced vanilla parfait sandwich with brown sugar figs whilst my partner had pear tarte tatin with Dunsyre Blue ice-cream (both £6.75). The parfait sat between slices of light, sugary puff pasty and the brown sugar on the figs had been bruleed; heaven. The presence of Irn Bru Turkish delight on the menu along with deep fried Mars bars proves that despite its class HDV does not take itself too seriously.

I am keen to return. The food is classic French bistro, the wine offering excellent and the service professional. Effortlessly urbane