Review written August 2009

THIS STYLISH ITALIAN BAR/CAFE BUZZES AS PEOPLE CHAT AND ENJOY THEMSEVES UNDER THE HIGH CEILINGS OF THE FORMER BANK. THE ROOM IS CLASSY BUT THE ATMOSPHERE HAS ALL THE WARMTH AND WELCOME OF A BIG SQUEEZE FROM AN ITALIAN MAMA. A DROPPED GLASS IS MET WITH A HAPPY CHEER AND SERVICE MOVES ON. IT IS THE FOOD, WINE AND COFFEE HOWEVER, THAT THE HOSTS, VICTOR AND CARINA CONTINI ARE MOST PROUD OF.

The wine by the glass is hand-selected by Victor and I choose a Falanghina, (£5.50) whilst I nibble on bruschetta (£3.95), slices of tomato, runny with luscious, full-bodied extra virgin olive atop rustic Italian bread. When my companion joins me he chooses assagio (£4.95) a plate of mozzarella di buffala, roasted Italian courgettes, mint and capers. The capers are wonderful with the milky cheese and taste as if they have been picked out of the garden and salted very recently, which they probably have. Fruit and veg are imported regularly from Italy and what doesn’t come from Italy is sourced from local, Scottish producers.

Mains are home-made pasta for me, ravioli filled with roasted violet aubergines in a light Sicilian sugo of pachino tomatoes, sultanas and pine kernels (£9.95). The pasta is velvety, the sauce intense with sun-ripened cheery tomatoes whilst the kernels and sultanas give a sweet, aromatic African twist. I complement it with a Bardlolino (£4.75), tannins soft as cashmere. Ask the staff for the best wine to match your meal, they won’t let you down. My partner has orechiette with sausage piccante, porcini mushrooms, rocket, fresh cream and Parmigiano reggiano (£10.95); a hearty, rustic, peasant dish. The meaty, spicy sausage is made by Crombies to a secret Contini recipe and is perfect served with the slippery ‘little ears’ of pasta. A Monteplucian d’ Abruzzo is complex and robust enough to accompany this dish. On the side, fagioli, a crisp insalate including beans from east Lothian producer Phantasie and a duck egg.

Dessert is a celebration of simplicity, a big fat nectarine, a satin peach and a perfect Machiato.