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One Square
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One Square
The Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa,
1 Festival Square,
Edinburgh,
Midlothian,
EH3 9SR
0131 221 6422
7 Days

 

Sole-food with Craig Hart

Craig Hart took the helm as Executive Chef for One Square early this year. Arriving from Gleneagles he swiftly put his own stamp on a revamped menu at this statement restaurant in The Sheraton. 

When I sat down to dinner with my friend Simone recently we noted that the new menu comprises classic, seasonal dishes where provenance is important. 

To start I had Dryfeholm pork belly and black pudding terrine with a micro leaf salad and cauliflower three ways (£10.50) whilst Simone chose Shetland mussels with Ayrshire bacon and roast pumpkins seeds (£7.50). The seeds were a new on us but Simone commented that the crunch complemented the flavour and texture of the shellfish which were 'soft and buttery'. My terrine was a pretty winter dish and I particularly liked the dots of piquant pickled cauliflower which added zing to the chunky meaty terrine. 

For main course I ordered a classic fish - Cornish sole with brown shrimps, parsley and caper burnt butter (£19.50). The fish was expertly cooked; slightly crunchy and golden on top with yielding characteristic bright white flesh underneath.  It was a whopper too, easily lapping the rim of my dinner plate and so, for the first time ever, Iwas defeated by a fish. I only managed three quarters. Creamed spinach on the side was excellent and seasoning throughout our meal was spot on, it does make all the difference you know. 

Simone had chosen baked Atlantic hake in a mussel and cockle chowder with young corn and Yukon Gold 1980 potatoes (£18). A well travelled lady who has eaten in restaurants worldwide she rated this dish highly. She commented that the distinct waxy heritage potatoes complemented the robust fish and that the dish was very well balanced with no one ingredient overpowering. 
Desserts continued the form. I had warm and spicy roasted autumnal plums in vanilla soup with a stunningly flavoured ginger and lychee sorbet (£6.50). Simone had vanilla parfait with roasted clementines, basil meringue and a granola crunch (£7). 

We both agreed that the cooking at One Square demonstrates a thoughtful and knowledgeable approach to produce. A high level of expertise is respectfully applied and the result is refined, classic, modern food. (S. Wilson)

Reviews of more Modern British restaurant here 


 

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