Review written 2007

Following in that great tradition of Scottish and French fusion, Café Marlayne takes Scottish ingredients like local fish, seafood, lamb and beef and prepares them in a classic French style. Best of all: it’s quite possible to eat an exceptional three-course meal for under £20, just off the High Street.

Although this is not a place to go if you’re looking for a wide vegetarian selection, it is the place for a fresh, ever-changing, and excellent menu. Handwritten sheets taped to the door outline the day’s specials, which depend entirely on what the chef is able to obtain. The wide variety of fish and seafood on offer highlights this focus on extremely fresh ingredients, and the rewards to the lucky diner are obvious.

I began with toasted goat’s cheese en croute with parma ham, roasted red peppers, black olives and tomatoes (£3.50) while my partner chose the seared king scallops with boudin noir (black pudding, to most of us), asparagus and raspberry vinaigrette (£5.60). Both dishes were beautifully presented, with fresh and well-sourced ingredients. My goat’s cheese was creamy and tangy, while the scallops and black pudding smelled wonderful (I wasn’t allowed to taste).

Starters quickly disposed of, my partner moved on to the seabass with ginger, chilli and sesame oil (£9.60). An entire (large) fish arrived, floating aromatically in the ginger and sesame sauce, and was quickly devoured with the pronouncement, ‘A very very good piece of fish.’ Feeling more in the mood for comfort food than haute cuisine, I ordered the homemade fishcakes of haddock and salmon, served in a beurre blanc (£6.70). Fishcakes may not be the most exciting of dishes, but these were excellent with chunks of fish interspersed with creamy potatoes.

Although the sweets on the dessert menu looked delightful, we finished with a selection of French cheeses (£4.50), a large assortment which nearly finished us, and coffee. I only wish that we’d been able to try the entirety of the menu before it changed the next day. It would certainly be an endeavour worth attempting.