September 2011

Ah, Edinburgh’s Stockbridge, an area of our city that undoubtedly has its very own bohemian-village ambience. It’s the perfect place to seek out a laid-back lunch, or indeed an indulgent evening meal. Fittingly then, Cafe Fish, previously located in Leith, has recently swum uptown to what is possibly the perfect neighbourhood for its fresh seafood and relaxed sophistication

I decided on potted shrimps and sourdough toast to start, a dish which sits somewhere between a buttery risotto and a flavoursome terrine. The shrimp to sourdough ratio

was weighted towards the former which was simply a delicious bonus! My fellow fish fan chose chilli & lemon-marinated octopus with potato, remarking that although it appeared rather dry without dressing, the fresh octopus was the star of the show and there was just enough tangy marinade to allow it to shine.

For my main course I opted for the North Atlantic cod which could have been a deep sea weightlifter (it was titanic!)  although still tender enough that it flaked easily under the slightest pressure from my fork. The accompanying sauce, beans and bacon, was tasty and rich but cleverly composed so as to not distract from my enjoyment of the fresh fish. Cafe Fish & Chips was chosen by my companion and was thoroughly enjoyed. The hake had a traditional if somewhat lighter ‘chip shop batter’; a crunchy coating that evoked the seaside.  And the chunky chips were declared as crispy and soft; the best oxymoron when it comes to chips!

To finish, I decided on lemon & lime cheesecake. The topping was more light mousse

than heavy cream and a relief to the tummy after such a substantial main course. The citrus flavours delicately teased rather than startled the palate; the raspberry sauce, a pleasantly tart contrast. My cohort, not being a ‘dessert person’, requested the cheeseboard and was duly accommodated with some quality goats’ cheese, quince and oatcakes.

Cafe Fish serves fantastically fresh and delicious food whilst retaining its laid back and, dare I say it, ‘cafe’ atmosphere. And after all, are these not the sort of vibes we indulge when we find ourselves in this part of town? (D.King)