Review written Autumn 2009

Doggie-Style

THE ORIGINAL ‘DOGS’ WAS THE BRAINCHILD OF DAVID RAMSDEN SOME THREE YEARS AGO. INSPIRED BY THE GASTRO-PUB AND THE RENAISSANCE OF BRITISH AND SCOTTISH INGREDIENTS. THE REMIT WAS TO BRING GOOD VALUE, GOOD QUALITY PLATES OF FOOD TO THE EDINBURGH DINING SCENE. YOU EITHER LOVE IT OR HATE IT. CARDS ON THE TABLE, I AM OF THE FORMER PERSUASION AND WAS THEREFORE VERY EXCITED BY THE PROSPECT OF FINALLY AND BELATEDLY VISITING AMORE DOGS, DAVID’S SECOND VENTURE; SAME FORMULA, BUT THIS TIME APPLIED TO ITALIAN CUISINE.

The space is clean, simple and airy with quirky, colourful touches whilst the menu is a simple list of dishes with an average price of about £6. I chose bruschetta with tomatoes (£3.15) for starters, firstly because I wanted to see what they did with it and secondly because I love bruschetta. I thoroughly enjoyed it: plentiful well-seasoned tomatoes, lots of luscious golden olive oil, freshly torn basil, thick, tough Italian bread and lots of garlic. I am sure there are purists that would disagree with the exact proportions of ingredients or delivery of this bruschetta but for me it was a hearty example of a simple dish done well.

Next up, radicchio and red wine risotto (£5.25) - not the most attractive looking dish but the first forkful won me over; stringy, melted cheese gave depth of flavour, the soft ruby radicchio was sumptuous and the rice was cooked correctly and as I like it, slightly chalky and al dente. I washed it down with a glass of decent Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC (£2.45 for 175ml) and eagerly looked forward to dessert.

I chose orange zabaglione with amoretti biscuits (£3.50). It was still foaming at the table there had been that much air whisked in. It was divinely rich, creamy and light, all at the same time. The biscuits had been crumbled delicately over the top to give just the right amount of crunch. Again a deceptively simple dish which had in fact been executed extremely proficiently.

The service throughout my meal was casual, friendly and unobtrusive and the waitresses managed their 'how-was-it-for-you?'s with genuine (and appreciated) concern.

I have heard rumour of a ‘Sea Dogs’ specialising in fish – bring it on.