Review written August 2009

‘On the tooth’

IN ITALIAN CUISINE ‘AL DENTE’ INDICATES THE FIRMNESS AND TEXTURE OF FRESHLY COOKED PRODUCE. IT IS SYMBOLIC OF THE COUNTY’S PASSION FOR THE PROVENANCE AND SEASONALITY OF INGREDIENTS AND GRAZIANO, THE GENIAL HOST OF THIS RESTAURANT, PERSONIFIES THIS PASSION. HIS WEBSITE STATES THAT AL DENTE SERVES “PURE, ITALIAN FOOD, UNADULTERATED BY CREAM OR PRE-COOKED PASTA.”

Correct to tradition we start with fresh bread, green, extra-virgin olive oil, balsamic and a light, sparkling Prosecco. Next, I choose grilled baby calamari stuffed with peppers and courgettes (£4.90) and my partner has the classic antipasto Italiano (£7.95); a traditional platter of cold meats including salami, Parma ham, and bresaola, served with pickled peppers. My calamari pockets are lightly-grilled, bursting with fresh vegetables, and respectfully seasoned, just a sprinkling of salt, pepper, olive oil and lemon juice. We also try the deep fried aubergine stuffed with mozzarella and fresh tomatoes (£4.60); crispy aubergines and oozy cheese. A Sardinian Rose is perfectly light and fruity on the nose, dry on the palate.

For mains we both choose from the specials. My friend has lemon sole with a black olive and avocado salad (£13.50) and I have seafood paccheri (£9.50). Paccheri are Neapolitan tubes of pasta and these ones are stuffed with a sea bass paste; buttony clams and tasty mussels are spooned over the pasta and a pink langoustine finishes the ensemble. A clever, luscious tasting dish cooked, of course, perfectly al dente. My friend’s sole is simply an unadulterated lovely piece of fish. The bitter olives contrast nicely with the creamy, avocado and a side of tempura courgette, haricot vertes, carrots and peppery roast potatoes are all equally delicious.

For dessert a simple, sweet, cold peach sorbet for me, freshly home-made, and for my friend a classic tiramisu (£3.90); light as a summer cloud, it contains cream, soft sponge, and a heavy dousing of dark cocoa.

Graziano is from southern Italy; his restaurant however, showcases regional dishes as do monthly themed nights. Our meal is unhurried and Graziano explains the dishes with passion and charm. The customers all appear relaxed and happy to be eating such lovely food in such a friendly restaurant.