SOMETIMES WE MISS WHAT IS UNDER OUR NOSE. ROSE ST FOR EXAMPLE AND ALL IT’S HISTORY. THE ABBOTSFORD IS A DAMN FINE BAR THAT HAS BEEN IN ROSE ST FOR OVER 100 YEARS AND ABOVE IT, IS AN EQUALLY FINE SCOTTISH RESTAURANT.

When we arrive at Above we settle in and break some bread. The menu reveals a selection of fish, seafood, meat and game dishes. The ambience is warm, comfortable and friendly. Good Scottish hospitality.

To start I have the Scottish smoked salmon platter with crayfish mousse and tarragon oil (£5.50). The dish is a joy; a good portion of thick, succulent salmon is surrounded by crayfish, the mixed leaf salad is sprightly and lightly dressed and the mousse is a chunky consistency and studded with more crayfish. The tarragon oil is an excellent quality green tinged oil and the herb itself (much underused in Edinburgh) is aromatic. My partner has a lentil and tomato soup with crusty bread (£3.50) it has warm, hearty, deep flavours.

For mains I have sliced roast haunch of venison with dauphinoisse potatoes and braised red cabbage (£13.90) and my partner has grilled fillet of salmon with an almond and basil pesto, saffron mash and roast cherry tomatoes (£9.95). Both the salmon and the venison are very slightly overdone. My venison is delicious nonetheless and the cabbage is not overly sweet and still has bite. The dauphoinnise are delicious and plentiful. Over the table the saffron mash, tomatoes and pesto lend a lovely Mediterranean feel to the Scottish salmon and I am convinced by now that the chef is French. That Auld Alliance strikes again I think but later learn he is in fact from Little France!

To finish we have rhubarb and apple crumble with home-made ice cream (£4.50) Sweet and uncomplicated it hits the spot. The ice cream is divinely milky and the crumble nice and light.

Throughout our meal my partner has sampled a couple of the excellent real ales from the pub below; a Scapa and a Lia Fail, both served by knowledgeable and enthusiastic staff. The icing on the cake.