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212212
3 Royal Terrace,
Edinburgh,
EH7 5AB
[View Map]
0131 523 1030/0845 21212
Tues-Sat 12 noon-1.45 and 7pm-9.30pm

The Wizard in the Kitching.  

It makes you feel eccentric doesn't it, says Mr Bite skipping down the street. And it does. Paul Kitching is like a Michelin-Starred Willy Wonka surrounded by his team of culinary troubadors creating and assembling, bent over the stove. What emerges from the open kitchen at 21212 may cause a shift in consciousness!

This restaurant feels both futuristic and traditional. A Georgian terraced townhouse with a space age font above the door, a complete course on course gourmet experience but with foams, parchments and many a kitchen gadget employed.

If I had any criticism it would be that you may experience sensory overload. Paul Kitching's creations are a gymnasium for your tastebuds.  What am I tasting? Why has he put these two things on the same plate? How can this work?

The dinner menu consists of 5 courses; starter, soup, main courses, cheese, and dessert, plus those little fine-dining extras. 

Fresh bread is superb and contains my favourite caraway seeds. The bouche is amused by a salad soup; stratas of texture and taste that evoke the allotment. An exotic mushroom and truffle bowl; slippery shrooms, flavoursome 'parchment', the best mozzarella ball, egg mayo in a cup. Winter soup is full of fire and spark.

Main courses lean towards the conventional in as much as they are protein on a dinner plate. Baked corn-fed French chicken breast for me which has been slow cooked in a sous vide to retain flavour and moisture so that it tastes its very best. Ditto Mr Bite's beef in his 'Ploughman's' which he raves about. With my chicken,onion 'popcorn', anchovy ad radish, pistachios, wild black rice sauce, sour cream. 

The cheese plate consists of 10 cheeses mostly French, some Scottish, a basket of biscuits and breads and a fat slice of sun-dried pear. Mr favourite combo is Dunsyre Blue with ginger snaps whilst the oaty biscuits go very well with the harder cheeses. 

For dessert Mr B has the Edinburgh Mess and I have LTx21 or glazed lemon curd tart with a shot of sophisticated saffron pineapple compote. Beautiful red Goji berries, yellow tart, pretty plate. 

Dinner prices are Tuesday - Thursday, 3 courses from £49, 4 courses from £59, 5 courses £69 whilst on Friday and Saturday you have to take the latter. Lunch is less. It all falls under the category of good value because you will be assured of an utterly unique experience. 

It's the closest thing in Edinburgh to Heston Blumenthal. 

 

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