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Joseph Pearce
Joseph Pearce
Joseph Pearce
23 Elm Row,
Leith Walk,
Edinburgh,
EH7 4AA
[View Map]
0131 556 1310
Sun-Thurs 11am-midnight, Fri-Sat 11am-1am; food served daily 'til 9pm

Review written March 2010


IT SEEMED FITTING TO VISIT THIS SWEDISH BAR FOR LUNCH ONE SATURDAY BEFORE WATCHING THE GIRL WITH THE DRAGON TATTOO. 'PEARCE'S' IS A POPULAR BAR, DUE IN PART, TO ITS LOCATION, RELIABLE WI-FI, COMFY CHAIRS FRIENDLY STAFF, CRÈCHE, AND WELL THOUGHT-OUT MENU AND IT ATTRACTS A GENUINE MIX OF PEOPLE. BUT ITS APPEAL ALSO LIES IN ITS SWEDISH CHARACTER AND IN THE QUIRKY PERSONAL TOUCHES OF OWNERS ANNA AND MIKE CHRISTOPHERSON; FROM THEIR TRADEMARK SHABBY-CHIC DECOR TO THE MENUS JACKETED IN THE COVERS OF CHILDRENS BOOKS TO THE ART ON THE WALLS AND THE CANDLES ON THE TABLES.

Here to try the new spring menu, I plonked myself on a sofa and opened 'Goofy on Safari'. Succulent lamb cutlets marinated in garlic and rosemary jus with Hasselbacks potatoes and curly Kale topped with mint sauce (£11) jumped out and I ordered promptly. It transpired to be an excellent meal. The three chops were thick, juicy and pink in the middle; the flavour from their fat had infiltrated every fibre of the meat and the jus was equally flavoursome. The kale was soft and sweet. I had been wondering about 'Hasselbacks' , and it turns out they are potatoes with numerous slashes, smothered in oil and roasted until they are soft and moreish. My one suggestion would be a sprinkling of crunchy sea salt and rosemary. It was a very impressive and satisfying dish though.

For dessert, I chose rhubarb and custard which was one of the best desserts I have had; a cocktail glass of alternative layers of cold, sweet, poached rhubarb and thick, luscious, vanilla- specked, creamy custard lie beneath a sprinkling of crunchy, buttery crumble and two dainty slices of luminous pink fruit (cue debate). A dessert that would make Masterchef judges weep with pleasure. I was only disappointed that I was too full to indulge in a cocktail, such as a passion fruit daiquiri or especially 'the girl with the dragon tattoo', which, I was told, consisted of vodka, Kahlua and coffee.

Pearce's has really cracked the market and they make it look so easy. I left pondering the fact that many restaurateurs and chefs could benefit from paying a visi

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