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Kernel Export Stout
James Wrobel is the proprietor of Cornelius Beer and Wine, 18-20 Easter Road, and can be contacted on 0131 652 2405.

Often the Internet can be a source of great frustration. It has never been easier to keep track of

your pursuits or interests and you can source opinion and news from around the world. It is easy to follow development of a movie from green-light through to post production. Unfortunately, the time between hearing of something new and exciting and finally experiencing it for yourself has never been greater.

 

As was the case with The Kernel Brewery, a tiny operation in central London that really is little more than a one-man business. Evin O'Riordain has been brewing just south of the river since 2009 and has garnered much praise online for his strong, characterful IPAs. Although the assertive aromas and high ABVs show a clear American influence, his beers have a greater depth and chewiness on the mid palate, hitting that sweet spot of complexity, smoothness and accessibility.

 

Unfortunately, as with all true microbreweries, demand far exceeds supply and it was September of this year before I had a chance to try them for myself.

 

I'm delighted to say that the beer exceeded my sky-high expectations.

 

The Kernel Centennial IPA, is a marmalade-coloured, pine-scented treat, with a very full, creamy body of toasted grapefruit, butter, walnut and honeycomb.

 

Better still was the Kernel Export Stout. Brewed to a Victorian recipe and bottled at a substantial 7.8% ABV, this is simply the best dark beer in the British Isles. As black as any Irish stout and completely opaque, with a thin shortbread coloured head. The nose is a glorious potpourri of roast coffee, bitter chocolate, raisins, rye bread and sweet red onion gravy. These flavours can all be found in the intense, full-bodied palate where they are married to sweet, creamy notes and pleasant touch of warming alcohol. The finish is as long as expected, but with very little bitterness or astringency.

 

I’m no slouch when it comes to drinking, but I managed to make a wee 33cl bottle of this stuff last the best part of an hour, savouring every last drop.

 

Unfortunately such excellence comes at a price. The Kernel beers are all fairly pricey and will only get more so as the duty rise on strong beers starts to bite. Expect to pay around £4 a bottle (if you are ever fortunate enough to spot one)

 

 

 

 

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