It has always been a dream of mine to visit Uddingston. Despite it being a mere 44 miles from Edinburgh, until this summer I had never been. But what was the appeal? Quite simply, it is home to the Tunnock's factory, where 10 million caramel wafers, snowballs, teacakes, and caramel logs are made every week. And this summer, I went on a private tour.

I arrived in Uddingston to the heavenly smell of coconut and chocolate in the air, with dreams of caramel rivers, vats of mallow and streams of chocolate: Scotland's own Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory.

I was shown round by Fergus, a lovely man who didn't in the slightest resemble an Oompa-Loompa, and seemed entirely unphased by (or perhaps used to?) my excitement. Everything, from the biscuit bases to the chocolate covering, is made on-site and I got to see it all.

Sheets of caramel, so smooth I wanted to write my name in them with my finger. Racks of wafers, destined to be covered in cream or caramel. Rows of little naked teacakes, their mallow forming a perky peak, waiting to be smothered in chocolate. Twelve ton vats of chocolate, buckets of sugar, crates of coconut. It was amazing.

Tunnock's began as a family business in 1890. It was initially a baker's, and until fairly recently, still devoted a floor of the factory to making pies and pasties for nearby shops. In the 1950s, though, the caramel wafer was born. It was closely followed by the teacake, snowball, and caramel log. Pie-making space was given over to the better known Tunnock's products, although the factory does still supply their nearby tearoom with savoury items. 

Tunnock's is still a family-run business, with Boyd Tunnock as the man in charge. I saw his car, and heard whispers of his comings and goings, but didn't catch a glimpse of him myself. I imagine he shoots along the corridors in a glass elevator, inventing strange things behind closed doors…or perhaps I'm getting carried away. 

But what makes Tunnock's so special? Tunnock's teacakes are the only high street variety to use an Italian meringue rather than gelatin to make their mallowy goodness. Their chocolate uses real cocoa butter, not vegetable fat. And they are surprisingly not too bad for you: a teacake has just 106 calories!

But beyond the edible aspects, there was something special about the atmosphere of the factory: something more than the wonderful smell and the barrows (yes, barrows) of sugar. From the moment I walked in the door, it was hard not to smile. Everything, from the naked teacakes to the robot packing machines, the bowls of complimentary caramel wafers and even the Oompa-Loompas – sorry, employees – seemed happy. And with an average service of 16 years, one suspects the factory's 550 staff must like what they do.

Hoping to join them, I asked about quality control, and volunteered as a taster but Fergus told me that they already have four. Alas. But perhaps a good thing as Fergus also said he's become immune to the smell of sugar and coconut. 

Tour over, bag of Tunnock's in hand, it was time to go. And while I didn't encounter Boyd, the last person I did meet was the man who mixed the chocolate - and his name was Willy.  There may not have been Oompa-Loompas and rivers of caramel, but it was still close enough to magic for me. (R Edwards)