August 2011

Does Martin Wishart have a painting in his attic? Edinburgh’s first Michelin man looks as fresh and energetic as ever as he opens new venture, The Honours. Along with fellow chef and business partner Paul Tamberrini he has created a French brasserie which is so classic it could have been inspired by the front cover of Larousse Gastronomique.

It’s a canny move. Despite recent trends for rustic dining, the success of, for example, Ondine has clearly demonstrated an appreciation in Edinburgh for quality cuisine in beautiful surroundings.

I visited with friend and fellow foodie, Fat Donny (he isn’t) for lunch. Ever the gent, he chose the prix fixe menu (£17.50 - sure to attract the New Town ladies who lunch), leaving me free to indulge in the a la carte.

Starters set the bar; expect deceptively simple looking dishes that belie expert execution.  For me, a Swiss cheese soufflé with spinach and béchamel (£8.25) and for Donny, pork belly minestrone with a free-range poached egg. My soufflé was a

puff of cheesy delight complemented by the silky sauce. However, and I squirm as I write, it was ‘very slightly overdone’; but still sublime. Donny declared his broth to be, “a modern take on minestrone”. It had layers of flavour and aroma, from the deep comforting labour intensive stock right through to high notes of fennel.

Main course for FD was goujonettes of plaice, mushy peas and tartare sauce whilst I chose rabbit a la moutarde with pommes sautées (£16.50). Neither of us are fans of goujons but their light freshness won us over whilst the mushy peas had an intensity of flavour that transported me instantly to my granddad’s allotment. The mustard sauce meanwhile took me to France; intense flavour, hint of rose mary and perfect consistency. (Minor quibble: the menu champions local produce so why source the rabbits from France?). Simple, delicious food executed with a delicacy of touch that modestly ensures the produce remains centre stage.

Desserts were an individually cooked, pastry-perfect tarte tatin (£7.25) for me with home-made milky ice cream and a sundae for Fat Donny with hokey-pokey and pleasingly ripe bananas.

The Honours is here to stay. In a city of proliferating bistros the gap in the market for a time-honoured brasserie has been cleverly spotted and exploited.  "À bientôt".