March 2011

I just love rhubarb! MasterChef presenter, Gregg Wallace (@puddingface on Twitter) has palpitations at the thought of a good crumble made from this versatile stem. Originally from Asia, it was introduced in Scotland during the18^th Century by Sir Alexander Dick at Prestonfield House; his horticultural efforts resulted in him being awarded a gold medal from the Royal Society. Rhubarb is still celebrated at Prestonfield where the restaurant is named after the plant. Some of the best comes from the Yorkshire Triangle where it can heard growing in the darkened sheds and just like Champagne, the EEC has now recognised Yorkshire-grown rhubarb as a regional product, but it grows quite happily here in Scotland too.

It’s versatile, lending itself to savoury dishes as well as sweet. Because of its tartness, rhubarb is an excellent foil for oily fish like mackerel and the richness of duck. Jams and chutneys, fools and mousses, rhubarb is a good all rounder. But I’m sure there are some out there who remember it from their school days with horror. All I can say is give this fabulous fruity vegetable another try.

I recently had a rhubarb frangipane, finding that almond worked really well and as the berry season is a wee while away, rhubarb would make a fantastic cranachan. Using an almond liqueur in the cream with pomegranate and rosewater gives an exotic tang. It’ll still taste fab even if the rhubarb doesn’t hold its shape.

Rhubarb Cranachan -

Serves 4

8oz pink forced rhubarb cut into 1” pieces

2½oz sugar

1fl oz pomegranate syrup

1½fl oz water

1tbsp rosewater

1½oz coarse oatmeal
14fl oz dbl cream
2 tbsp runny honey
2 tbsp almond liqueur

Method

1. In a wide pan, bring pomegranate syrup, water, rosewater and sugar to the boil. Add the rhubarb and simmer gently for 2-3mins. Remove from heat and let rhubarb cool in juice.
2. Toast oatmeal in a frying pan until golden.
3. Whip the cream until just thick then stir in honey and liqueur.
4. Drain rhubarb and mix through cream.
5. Over a medium heat, reduce the poaching liquid until thick and syrupy.
6. Just before serving fold in oatmeal, spoon into glasses and top with syrup.

What else is in my basket?

Lamb, wood pigeon, crab, wild garlic, kale, watercress, spinach.