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The Canons’ Gait
The Canons’ Gait
New Review
The Canons’ Gait
232 Canongate,
High Street,
Edinburgh,
Midlothian,
EH3 8DQ
[View Map]
0131 556 4481
Food served: Mon–Sat noon–8pm
canonsgait@dmstewart.com

Essentially a traditional pub steeped in history, The Canons’ Gait has also recently become known for its superior pub food. Mr Bite and I went along one Friday night to investigate.

It’s a busy, no-frills bar with a good selection of real ales and Mr Bite happily ordered a pint of Carronade IPA from the excellent Tryst brewery.  I had ‘taken the pledge’ for the month so was disappointed that alcohol -free beer was not available, this is not unusual though.

The menu contains pub staples, more ambitious dishes and a specials board. Starters chosen from the board were a tomato, chilli and seafood soup (£3.75) for me and pressed pig’s cheek, crispy pig’s ear, buttered rye toast and a salsa verde (£4.75) for Mr Bite. The terrine had good porky flavour, the twirls of ear added texture and chopped gherkins in the verde provided a good vinegary foil. My soup was more a Med-style fish stew; tomatoes, vegetables, herbs, garlic and chilli. It was chunky warming and fiery, just the sort of simple, peasant dish I love.

For mains I wanted rabbit casserole but it had sold out so I decided on a special of duck breast potatoes dauphinoise and cherry sauce (£11.95) and Mr Bite chose Crombies ‘Auld Reekie’ sausages and mash (£7.25). My duck was pink, tender and not the least bit fatty. The cherries were not over- sweet and made an excellent fruity accompaniment. A parcel of shredded Savoy cabbage was much appreciated whilst the dauphinoise were tasty and creamy with a slightly chewy topping , but still with bite; perfect. Mr Bite loved his mash which sat in a beefy gravy pool and the Carronade was a thirst- quenching, hoppy foil to the rich, meaty dish.

For dessert we shared an Amaretto parfait. We had perhaps assumed dessert would be perfunctory; au contraire. A base with chopped nuts, crushed biscuit, coconut, and ginger could have made this dish cheese-cakey if the base were not so thin, balanced and un-cloying. The frozen cream likewise had a perfect balance of sweet, cool, alcoholic flavours; the raspberry coulis was a pleasantly tart accompaniment and a pretty still- wrapped amaretto biscuit completed the plate.

The Canon’ Gait had truly impressed us and we left on a high note.

 

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