Christmas is a pretty understated affair round at our gaff. The only real indulgence I allow myself is the odd glass or three of seasonal beers.

Your classic Christmas beer is an exercise in excess, usually a Belgian triple or quadruple fermented monster, stronger and pricier than most wines and infused with a multitude of seasonal herbs and spices. These are powerful ales that demand your respect and are one of the few drinks with the clout to stand up to the cholesterol apocalypse that is Christmas pudding.

Much as I love these beers I recognise the limits of their appeal. Not everyone wants to limit themselves to just a wee half, or find themselves nodding off into their pint.

There is definite gap in the market for a light session beer with a festive twist. One of the easiest and most neckable has to be the Santa’s Swally from the Inveralmond brewery in Perth. They’ve been brewing this bitter for the last few winters, but this is the first year they have released it in bottle.

It is a very pretty beer, a lovely burnished copper colour - a bit flat maybe, but with a decent head. The nose is very impressive with warm, malty aromas balanced with a bitter, dried fruit edge. The palate has both caramel sweetness and dry pepper notes. It is spiced with nutmeg, cinnamon and a clove or two, but these flavours are very well-integrated and never overpower the generous smattering of hops. It has a rather light, clean finish with a very delicate, sour edge and a very civilised 4.3% abv, making it a good option for a cheeky drink with your folks during the Queen’s speech.

I could well see myself having a few of these over the next few weeks. It may well lack the assertive clout of the more extreme Christmas beers, but it has plenty of festive character. It will be widely available through November & December and should cost about £2.30 for a 50cl bottle.

James Wrobel is the proprietor of Cornelius Beer and Wine on Easter Road and can be contacted on 0131 652 2405.