Winter White Truffle Dinner Hosted  by Giorgio Locatelli at Cucina, Hotel Missoni

A snap, last minute decision to attend this event conspired with a dead blackberry and a poker commitment for Mr Bite to find me sitting alone in the bar at Hotel Missoni.  Canapés were snaffled, Spumante was sipped and there I sat,  phone less and friendless and feeling a little like Ruth Reichl in her best old woman disguise, invisible. The night however, was young and full of promise.

I was soon in my comfort zone. Seated at my table for one the lovely staff at Cucina began to flutter around me. Wine was poured, food was served and my experience was about to begin.

Giorgio Locatelli , of the Michelin starred Locanda Locatelli , grew up in Northern Italy and as we know – Italians, they adore their food. A first course of Castel Rosso, Fontal Cavalese and Sola cheese soup with white truffle alerted me, this was going to be indulgent. The soup was more like a fondue really, with Umbrian white truffle ceremoniously and generously shaved on top.  It was so rich and buttery and the truffle so heady that I savoured every mouthful. A Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jessi Classico Le Vagli, Stefano Antonucci, (DOC) 2009 was perfumed just enough to complement the truffle but still cut through the cheese with its elegance.

Next, homemade pasta parcel with fresh egg, a thin layer of potato puree and white truffle; the pasta had a luscious texture but was still al dente. When cut the golden yoke spilt in an unctuous puddle and the truffles again added that inexplicable but oh so special dimension to the dish. The wine, Olivar Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Cesconi (IGT) 2008 was an unusual blend of Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay; the buttery nature of the latter complimenting the rich pasta and egg whilst the other grapes combined to cleanse the palate.

Parmigiano reggiano risotto with white truffle followed and a Sangiovese Colli Pesarese, Fattoria Mancini (DOC) 2007. Carnaroli, rice is used for the risotto; a longer grain rice than Arborio and it makes a risotto that is both creamy and al dente due to the perfect balance of the two starches in the rice, amylopectin and amylose; the former gives creaminess the latter firm internal texture. The cheese gave a yellow richness which contrasted with the vibrant red Sangiovese.

Pan fired veal chop was pink, baby tender flesh on flavour  yielding bone. The fat was milky and white; mashed potato, a far too pedestrian description for this rich sticky puree swimming in jus. The Nebbiolo Costa della Sesia, Travaglini (DOC)2008 has herbs and licorice on the nose and some cherry on the palate.  At this stage in the game I am praying to the great goddess of greed, Nigella, for strength. Luckily the Marsala zabaione with white truffle is both sweet and so alcoholic that it acts as a digestif also. Muscato di Pantelleria, Solidea (DOC) 2006 has lemon and orange peel, raisin and all butteriness and spice of a Christmas panettone.

Of course the whole point of the meal is to showcase the white truffle and I swear by the end of the meal I was high on the ‘white gold’. It fills the nostrils and then your head. It is best shaved in paper thin slices onto simple dishes which act as a canvass for the aromatic, musky fungi.  You will smell of it for days and I though it mixed very well with Chanel Mademoiselle.

 All credit for this wonderful experience must go to not only Girgio  Locatelli but also to the staff at Cucina who were so clearly enjoying the evening. The sommeliers, reception and waiting staff were balletic in their professional reading of the room but they did it with a down to earth and friendly enthusiasm.

And the most important message of this review is don’t miss the next event of this kind. It’s great value whatever, the price tag.  I promise.