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Knops Musselburgh Broke
Knops Musselburgh Broke

It's pathetic, I know, but I do derive a small amount of pride from the numbers of premieres, previews, product launches and opening nights I have managed to sneak myself into over the years. There was a time in the late nineties when it felt like I was never without a canapé in one hand and a warm glass of Sauvignon in the other.

It was in this spirit that I found myself starting October by sitting on a tasting panel, alongside many of Edinburgh's online beer geek community. Our genial host was Robert Knops; brewer, Edinburgher and all-round good bloke. He had corralled us together to evaluate a selection of prototypes of his latest creation, mild Scotch ale, of moderate alcohol & bitterness. As the evening began, the only thing that had been decided was that this new beer should be called Musselburgh Broke, an obscure and arcane brewing reference that I shan't bother you with.

 

As it progressed we were poured a succession of beers that differed in slight variations of malt balance and alcohol. They all looked pretty much alike; spectacular, chestnut-hued beers, topped by a fluffy head. But besides appearance I was struck by how very minor adjustments to the recipe had resulted in very different beers.

 

All were malt accented and rather sweet, but the beer with slightly more hop concentration was decidedly more effervescent, had a savoury edge to the palate and had developed a wood smoke & charcoal aroma. The strongest sample was much fruitier, with a palate rich in molasses, raisin, Demerara and maple syrup.

 

To one batch he had added a dash of wheat malt which gave the beer a Bavarian feel, creamy with aromas of roast banana. This was very popular, but we all wondered whether it had strayed too far from the brief, having too much weight & body to be gluggable and not being Scottish enough in character. Opinion gradually gravitated toward a beer that had maybe a bit less personality, but made up for it in being absolutely bloody delicious. A deep brown ale with a subtle nose of dried fruit, rich caramel and gentle spice, a gentle hit of 4.9% abv and a warming finish. Fuller in flavour than your common-or garden eighty shilling but very easy to drink.

Whatever the final recipe, if these early samples are anything to go by, it should be a stonking wee beer to see the winter nights in with. Hopefully it will be hitting the shelves before Christmas.

James Wrobel is the proprietor of Cornelius Beer and Wine on Easter Road and can be contacted on 0131 652 2405.

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