September 2010

“I’ve booked The Doll’s House, a two course lunch for £6.95” the text stated. It didn’t exactly have me doing backward cartwheels. Why not? Because I just don’t trust that I am going to get good food at that price and would rather pay £10 for one really good course. Perhaps I am being biased, I thought, let’s give it a go. Another lesson learnt the hard way, always trust your instincts.

Things started well, a drive to St Andrews in the sunshine passing all the fantastic producers along the way, venison, strawberries, cheese … I was salivating by the time Mr Bite and I entered this pleasant, buzzing sunny restaurant and met our friend.

For starters the boys chose deep-fried brie with garlic mayo, chilli and rocket and I went for the chicken and rosemary parfait, pistachio pesto and chard salad (supplement £1.75). The brie was surprisingly good; light, golden and crunchy, nice oozy cheese and peppery rocket. My ‘parfait’ had me perplexed though. A parfait should be silky, smooth and deep with flavour. This had a texture akin to cheese and no discernible flavour. I struggled to remain upbeat. The leaves were good!

For mains Mr Bite was tempted by the risotto of garden peas and herbs but took umbrage at the £1.50 supplement on a vegetable dish. Instead he went for sea bass fillets with gazpacho sauce and micro leaves whilst my friend and I chose baked coley fillet with aubergine purée and white truffle oil. A puzzle ensued. What had the chef done to the fish? What had been done to produce such sorry, off-colour, flabby, flavourless specimens? We concluded that they must have been frozen and micro-waved. The aubergine puree was an under-seasoned smear seriously in need of pep. Vegetables were carrots, cabbage and potatoes, all tasteless and drowned in butter as if to compensate. It didn’t. There is no excuse for this when you are surrounded by such wonderful Fife produce, none. Here is the name of a producer Bellfield Organics and Jamesfield Farm, organic, local and tasty. Our mains were mostly left untouched. The leaves were good.

Dessert wasn’t really on the cards and we retired to the pub.