August 2010

Trois couleurs s’il vous plait

We need a L’ Escargot Rouge in Edinburgh. We have ‘bleu’ in Broughton Street, ‘blanc’ in the West End and I think a ‘rouge’ in the Southside would complete the set and rather neatly emphasise the gastronomic fraternité of Scottish ingredients with a French twist. I wonder if owners Frédéric Berkmiller and Betty Jourjon agree?

I went along with a friend to sample ‘Blanc’ in the West End. We chose from the a la carte menu although there is also an excellent menu du jour.

We started with foie gras with toasted brioche and apple chutney (£8.10) for me and steamed mussels with bleu d’Auvergne cheese for my friend (£5.70). The atmosphere couldn’t be more ‘bistro’, lots of posh Edinburgh folk tucking in to coq au vin, l’escargot and lapin. My foie gras was a  musky,  smooth joy and the lovely waitress cleverly suggested a dessert wine to compliment it. My well-heeled and demanding friend gave her mussels nine out of ten, praise indeed.

Next up was fish of the day for me, ling, served with mussels and bouillabaisse (£13.20) and grilled asparagus, shaved parmesan and stuffed potatoes for the dowager (£11.90).  The fish was perfectly nice, not over-cooked, the croutons were crisp, the rouille fiery and there was plenty of celery, carrot, saffron and herbs in the tasty stew. My friend’s dish was an example of exquisite simplicity. Bright, grassy green asparagus , vine tomatoes and the baked potato had been stuffed with butter and cheese and was sumptuously soft and tasty. I thought the wine list ‘could do better’ but we chose the popular Picpoul de Pinet which neither of us had drunk for a while and so its excellence was freshly appreciated.

Dessert was a good crème brulee for my friend; vanilla specks, nice glassy topping and cherries in Kirsch which 'didn’t quite do it' for me (both £4.90). C’ est la vie I was still perfectly happy with my meal and would highly recommend this charming little bistro. I am very much looking forward to working my way through the remainder of the menu.