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Six by Nico Edinburgh - Mexico
New Review
Six by Nico
97 Hanover Street,
Edinburgh,
EH2 1DJ
0131 225 5050

 

Mrs Bite thought 'The Chippie', Nico Simeone's first Edinburgh themed menu was a bit hit and miss. The balance and order of the dishes felt off kilter in places but certainly accomplished and interesting enough to guarantee a return visit and luckily every six weeks a new menu is announced. Willy Wonka followed The Chippie and then came ‘Mexico’- my favourite cuisine - I couldn't resist.

A pineapple and basil margarita was too heavy and syrupy but followed by a great first course. ¿Who would think of teaming chicken thigh taco with strawberry? But a summer salsa added a sweet refreshing lift to the poultry. Secondo course was my favourite; smoky paprika crisp being a base for sweet red and yellow heritage tomatoes and an intense dehydrated slice of the fruit for garnish. Avocado gazpacho was mixed to a sauce with lots of lime whilst housemade creamy queso tamed all that citrus. 

Attention to texture, flavour combinations and presentation of this innately colourful cuisine was evident throughout our meal. 

Fried golden kernels of corn mimicked habas fritas as a final touch of crunch on creamy yellow sweetcorn risotto, minced green chorizo and red pepper gel. Next came Mr Bite's favourite course sea bass on cubes of courgette, Jersey Royals, pickled pumpkin and slithers of orange. The squash were piquant, a crab mole bisque-like.  

Every course allows you to taste elements individually or all together, the explosions of flavour are imaginative and fun. The food nods to its earthy heritage with rustic nachos, tacos and quesadilla but Nico applies magic modern touches to reinvigorate this well loved spicy food. 

The most conventional course was slightly smoky Barbacoa pork on rainbow chard with refried beans, tomatillo and crackling. This was a supremely comforting dish let down only by slightly impotent crackling. Dessert had me at once with banana ice cream. It came with chunks of light moist banana loaf, Tonka bean, caramel and cacao in various forms of wizardry. 

Superb value for £28 and the restaurant was buzzing.  We can’t help but wonder what comes next. (S. Wilson)

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