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Six by Nico Edinburgh
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Six by Nico
97 Hanover Street,
Edinburgh,
EH2 1DJ
0131 225 5050

The Chippie
 
Italian-Scots Chef Nico Simeone, known for his Finnieston restaurant in Glasgow, has arrived in Edinburgh’s New Town bringing a brand new tasting menu to his restaurant every six weeks. 
 
First up was ‘The Chippie: salt and sauce edition’ which deconstructed dishes inspired by that well loved Scots Italian fusion, fish and chips.
 
Located centrally in Hanover Street the décor is modern – albeit with nods to the Roman such as marble effect walls. Dishes are constructed in an open kitchen with a live camera feed to big screens projecting the detailed movements of chefs as they assemble your food. 
 
Mrs Bite and I were welcomed with a glass of fizz and nibbles and left later clutching rolled up menus and hanging on to our wild imaginations. 
 
Chips & cheese was presented as a little bowl of Parmesan espuma spotted with curry oil. Hidden behind the cheese were delicious fried potatoes minutely chopped. A tasty dish which we devoured greedily and which had a good balance between crispiness and creaminess albeit without the curry punch expected. 
 
Scampi was reinvented as fried Scrabster monkfish cheeks in pea ketchup, herb pesto and bergamot. The overall taste had a sweet tendency and the paired wine wasn’t mineral enough to clean the palate. Similarly the steak pie which followed would have benefited from a more robust red than that which was served. 

I felt the next course was misplaced as it was fish and white wine following meat and red wine.  Shetland cod fillet topped with crispy battered crumbles though transpired to be a very nice nod to a ‘fish supper’ minus the calories.  Hidden beneath were pickled mussels, beer emulsion and confit fennel.
 
Nico’s take on the smoked sausage was a glass bell emitting a dramatic cloud of smoke when lifted and a sausage wrapped in fried spaghetti underneath. 
 
Last but not least deconstructed deep-fried mars bar accompanied by an Irn-Bru buttered-washed fino sherry cocktail. The sweet dish was balanced by the introduction of orange slices.

Overall Mrs Bite and I thought that some dishes were either too sweet or too salty and thus unbalanced and we would have liked to have seen fewer ingredients here and there. 

However – we also thought that Nico Simeone has given us an exciting experience which was good value for money and demanded a return visit.  (E. Vanello)


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