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The Wine House Hotel 1821
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The Wine House Hotel 1821
Picardy Place,
Edinburgh,
EH1 3JT
0131 557 1821

 

What better way to get over a week of dental agony caused by an abscess a four-course Italian meal! 
 
My invite was from The Wine House 1821, setup by culinary expert, Sep Marini and Italian wine producers, ZONIN1821 and set in a beautiful Georgian townhouse. 
 
The menu, ‘Viva Napoli’, was a clue to the type of food and drink served and was the first of many regionally-themed evenings the venue has planned. 

A starter of Zeppoline di Mare promised prawns and seaweed in a light tempura batter – sadly the prawns were posted missing, with a chopped morsel or two hiding in the batter, which was not the usual light, airy stuff, but a thicker dough that would have been at home clinging to a Mars Bar about to hit the fryer in Café Piccante. Disappointing.

Scialatelli all Amalfitana was the second dish. Handmade linguine-type pasta with a seafood ragu was very decent – the tomato sauce brought to life with a hit of what I assumed was Amalfi lemon – these babies grow to the size of footballs in the fertile land around Naples – it really lifted the dish, which I could have eaten more of. 
   
Up next was Gateau di Patate. Potato cooked with smoked cheeses with creamed broccoli and yellow cherry tomato. At this point in an Italian meal, meat is usually the star of the show, but the potato croquette took centre stage instead. It was tasty and the smoked cheese worked well with the smooth mash.

La Pastiera was the pudding. A traditional Neapolitan tart with ricotta infused with orange water. The wheat tart was well baked and crisp but the ricotta was drowned in the orange water. A shame as ‘a hint’ would have complemented the pieces of finely chopped orange or clementine.   

A crisp white Greco and a full bodied red Aglianico, both local Campania wines, were paired with the food. At £20 a bottle they were great value and a good accompaniment to our Naples dinner experience.

Given this was their first dining event, hitches could be expected. Chef Rocco Monaco is very accomplished having worked at Missoni and Locanda di Gusto in the Capital, and will, I’m sure, put things right. 

How ironic I start the week with dental problems and it ends with teething problems!    (D. Hughes) 


 

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