Vibrant green Wye Valley asparagus and day-glo pink rhubarb both force their way through the cold dark ground of the hungry gap to announce Spring and it’s a joy that both feature prominently on the menu of this new restaurant in Broughton Street.
Le Roi Fou is run by Jérôme Henry, formerly head chef at Anton Mosimann’s Private Dining Club in Belgravia and Les Trois Garçons, Shoreditch.
The feel of the restaurant is 'salon' and crafted by creative director Isolde Nash. The influence of Dada and the Absurd art movement manifests in the logo, an illustration of a mad king with a hedgehog on a platter.
A simple mustard and olive palette befits a stylish but understated clientele that arrive by taxi, take a drink at the bar and create a relaxed buzz.
Me and Mr Bite choose the asparagus and langoustines for starters. Why wouldn’t you. All the work has been done for the latter so they squat comfortable and naked on the plate next to a piquant abundant salad of herbs and radish; flesh is white, wobbly and moist. Asparagus is fat, just warmed and steamed al dente. Perfect judgment produces two delicious starters.
Main courses are huge slabs of rib-eye for him and cod for me. The fish is toasted golden and comes in a buttery saffron sauce. Chiffonade fennel and celery are the vegetables I would choose to add to this dish too although a medley of broccoli, cauli and asparagus bits peek from the rich sauce. Rib-eye is full of flavour and comes with a pat of marrow and colourful heritage carrots cooked to retain all of their wonderful flavour.
Desserts come classic and simple - poached rhubarb, pistachio crumble and crème fraîche for me and Valhrona chocolate marquise, fondant and ice-cream for Mr Bite.
Le Roi Fou is a good addition to Edinburgh sitting alongside Broughton Street stalwarts The Basement and The Street physically and The Honours, The Wee Restaurant and Galvin’s gastronomically. (S. Wilson)
There are currently no reader reviews. Be the first to review by clicking below!