In the sett
Badger and Co is a finely turned out gent in the New Town. Located on Castle Street it rubs shoulders with George Street biggies Contini and Tigerlily and is far too polished and sartorial to reside in hipster Leith or studenty Marchmont despite the quirky theme.
Me and my friend 'The Dowager' sink into fat comfy seats by the window. The menu is tempting so there is a lot of hungry indecision before final choices are made.
For starters grilled scallops and apple black pudding for me and crispy goats’ cheese for The Dowager. Both are very prettily presented. My scallop (one) is beautifully cooked and the confit tomato is a refined well chosen mate to the pud. I am generally not concerned about portion size versus price but if you are, £8 for a non hand-dived bivalve is steep. The Dowager has a nice combo of gooey cheese with snappy pecans but commented likewise that the portion was small.
Main courses were roast lamb rump for me and ' from the grill ' darne-cut Loch Durra trout for the Dowager who prefers this fish to salmon. Thrice-cut chips on the side were middling, the trout was beautiful but the lemongrass and chilli marinade was quite oily. The dish was served on a board, and The Dowager revealed she was acquainted with the Facebook page "we want plates” and was a fan. My lamb was flavoursome and tender and I liked the fried polenta cake, roast onions and garlic. This was a nice Sunday lunch, satisfying and well executed if perhaps lacking a bit of 'je ne sais quoi'.
For desserts we both had lavender crème brûlée with fruit biscotti. The latter didn't work. It should have been crispier and it should have been classic almond. The brûlées were excellent - all luscious and creamy - albeit without a hint of lavender.
Badger and Co didn't set the heather alight for us but it's a perfectly respectable pit stop. (S. Wilson)
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